Brooklyn, I'm Trying

Keep Me, Posted | Madrid, Spain

Liz Norment — Thu, 06 Feb 2020 02:04:00 +0000

I uncovered this photo beneath another in an old frame. This photo was taken while wandering the streets of Madrid, not too far from the Plaza Mayor. And what I like about this photo isn’t only the beauty in its simplicity, or the sheer Spanishness of it…

What I like about it is the girl who was on the other side of the lens. I took this photo on my very first day in Europe. On the very first day I was abroad. On the very first day I was alone, without my family, without my friends, without all the familiarity of my life up until that moment. And I remember falling in love with the symmetry of the balconies, with the way the light cast shadows at such a particular angle beneath them, with the idea of a lifestyle where the sun greets you in the morning and you stand sipping coffee on a tiny balcony, observing the city below in a robe from your bedroom.

What I didn’t realize at the time was that I was actually in love with the beauty of discovery. After that day, I’d go on to travel the world; to never lose the longing for that feeling of adventure, to never not pause to appreciate the way sunlight cast shadows upon a building in a foreign city. . Years later, I would find myself standing in the exact same spot, at what had to be the same time of day, and I stopped myself. I recognized the building, the scene, the light. And I remembered myself standing there 6 years earlier as a novice traveler, and then, 6 years later, standing there as a residence of that very city- the city that had given me life as a traveler.

Oh, Madrid. Thank you. Thank you so very much.

Summer Guide To NYC Beaches | The Rockaways and Fort Tilden

Liz Norment — Fri, 24 May 2019 16:32:40 +0000

For a city known for its iconic skyline, New York has some damn great shoreline that’s not only worth exploring, it’s necessary. The lack of greenspace in this town means that the Summers are hot. Really hot. And there’s no relief at night, when the pavement emits its heat and the city dwellers expel their anger and whatever the hell is brewing underground spews up through the manholes.

But how do you avoid the crowds, the tourist traps, the bullshit, the noise and just spend a day relaxing on the beach?

Let me show you how.

Summer Guide to NYC Beaches | The Rockaways and Fort Tilden

The Rockaways are my favorite piece of shoreline for a few reasons. It’s easy to get there, the beaches are clean, clothing is optional, and I don’t have the money or tolerance to go to the Hamptons. Are you in the same boat? Then hop on the NYC Ferry and let’s get out of town.

How To Get There

By Bike

Biking is always an option thanks to the beautiful NYC Greenway that will take you straight across the Jamaica Bay to Jacob Riis Park. The 25-mile round trip will take you a little over an hour each way and take you throuhg some neighborhoods in Brooklyn you’ve never seen, but it is quite an active mode of transportation. Do it at least once. Map and info here.

By Bus

The Alexa Bus Company will pick you up from the Bedford Stop all day on the weekends and costs only $12 round trip, which is a hell of a deal. You can drink on the bus/van/whatever is there when you need it, and it drops you off right at Jacob Riis Park, home of the Brooklyn Beach Bazaar and located right in between Far Rockaway and Fort Tilden. Plan to leave the beach way before you intend to because the vans fill up, fast. Info here.

The NYC Ferry

This is easily the best and most enjoyable option. Hop on anywhere between Greenpoint and Dumbo to take the boat across to the Financial District. From there, hop off and get in line for the Rockaway ship. Ride up top in the open air to get a head start on your tan or duck inside for some AC and Rose, local beers, and some tequila concoction on draft (yep). An hour later you’ll arrive at Beach 116th st. Download the NYC Ferry App here to check scheduling and reserve your tickets ahead of time. Again, arrive at least 30 minutes before your boat home leaves. If it’s a busy beach day the boats fill up fast.

When To Go

Weekdays. Trust me. I know, I know, this might be tough, but take a “personal day” and get up early and spend the whole day there. If you have to go on the weekends, be at the ferry by 8am. You’ll be dealing with crowds the whole way but Fort Tilden still remains comparitively secluded. You won’t be fighting for a lean-to spot is all I’m saying.

The beaches “open” on Memorial Day and “close” on Labor Day, apparently. Now i”m no geographer but I’m prettu sure they are there year-round. Go whenever the weather permits it, just be aware that there will be no lifeguards on duty, likely no concessions available, and for better or worse, no one peddling Nutcrackers.

What To Bring

A wine thermos for rose

Water

Two sheets

Rubberbands (hairties will do)

Beach Towels

Ham Sandwiches

Snacks

Sunscreen

One large inflatable flamingo

How To Do It In Style

My tried-and-true-and-tried-again-and-again method for the perfect day on the Rockaways.

The night before, get supplies for sandwiches, a few snacks, and a bottle of rose. Go out to your local bar. Get a little drunker than you intended. Come home, assemble said sandwiches, find your beach towel and sunscreen and suit, and fall into bed with an ambitious 6:30am alarm set (and consequently one for 6:33, 6:37 and 6:41am.) Drag yourself out of bed when the alarm sounds. Put on your suit, shorts, sandals. Grab your packs. Leave the house no later than 7. Bike to the ferry at India St. Have a few sips of rose while you wait. Stay awake long enough to get through South Brooklyn and over to Wall Street. Bike 4 blocks to Leo’s for bagels. Make fun of all the stuffy suits in line. Bike back to the ferry.

Board the ferry to Rockaway and get a cozy seat. Pull out your towel and roll it up into a pillow. Fall asleep against your beach buddy.

Like magic, wake up at Rockaway. It’s 9:15 and the day and beach are all yours. Slather on some sunscreen, flatten out the sheet, pass out again.

Wake up with new friends surrounding you. That’s when you’ll know it’s time to pack up. Bike 3 miles down to Fort Tilden.

Admire the Dystopian old fort at Jacob Riis. Stop for a frozen bev and foods here at the Bazaar because where you’re going, you’ll only have what you bring with you.

Bike until the boardwalk runs out. Lock up your bikes and start walking towards what will be your spot for the day, collecting sticks along the way for a lean-to. Stake out your spot and bury the sticks deep enough to be sturdy. Attach the sheet to the sticks with your chosen fasteners. Lay the other sheet beneath your new fort. You’ve worked up a sweat. Run down and jump in the water.

At this point, clothing is completely optional. Most midweek beachgoers are totally nude, and there’s enough space to not feel uncomfortable. If a cop on horseback comes along, don’t panic. He will simply ask you to put on your bathing suit, at which point, pretend to put on your bathing suit and then flick him off as he trots away and you strip down again.

Spend the rest of the day drinking rose, battling the waves atop of flamingo, and basking in the sun feeling miles away from the city.

When the rose runs out, deflate the flamingo, disassemble your lean-to, take one last dip, and hop back on your bikes. Bike 3 miles to Caracas on the boardwalk at Beach 106th. Get an arepa and frozen sangria.

Aim to arrive back at the ferry 30 minutes ahead of schedule. grab a seat up top to catch the last rays of sun as the city slowly drifts back into view. Transfer at Wall Street. Make fun of the stuffy suits. Treat yourself to one last rose on the boat back to Brooklyn.

Go home, rinse, and repeat it all next week.

See you on the beach, Brooklyn.

<3L.

Virginia Beach, VA | City Guides for the Urban Nomad

Liz Norment — Fri, 12 Oct 2018 16:23:14 +0000

Most people have no idea that New York has amazing beaches. Why? Because the conversation is too crowded by everything else. Our coastline is interrupted by an iconic skyline. Our sand has been fused into layers of concrete supporting floors of skyscrapers. Our rays of sunlight have been outshined by the bright lights, big city.

So what is there to be said for a city known and named for its beaches? Likely a lot more.

The beach at Sandbridge, captured by yours truly.

I was unapologetically led to Virginia Beach seeking to extend my summer. The empty lifeguard stands at the Rockaways made me feel prematurely abandoned. It still felt warm. According to the calendar, it still was summer. If the season had fled, I would chase it.

Admittedly I was driven to this southern city for such a purpose. Yet even as I descended upon it, I was reminded of the futility of this designation.

To define a place simply by a fortunate geographical feature is nearsighted and foolish. Manhattan is surrounded by water but not one of its inhabitants is living an “island life”. And Virginia Beach has a coastline, and what else?

Upon entering the Oceanaire Resort at the waterfront, I was stopped by a concierge sitting in a small booth near the entrance. “Hello ma’am, welcome to Virginia Beach!” he said.

“Well thank you,” I told him.

“Need any recommendations on things to do in the area?” He shoved a pack of tacky family-focused beach guides and business listings into my hands.

“Oh honey,” I wanted to say, “You have no idea why I’m here, do you?”

Temporarily armed with the antiquated local travel materials and leaving my defenseless competitor in my wake, I set off to rewrite to story of the area over the next three days.

What I found was a city with a beating heart. A creative community that was accepting and admittedly more successful through and from the successes of their peers; people who blurred the lines of surfer and hustler but were enraptured by the limitless potential of the area; a food scene based upon the bounty from surrounding waters, creatively enhanced with boundless international influences; and a general feeling of eternal, enlightened summer.

Come spend three days in this vibrant, coastal city and find what you didn’t expect.

Day 1: The Unseen Coastline

This day will be dedicated to appreciating the Coastline beyond the beach. Inevitably a coastal town develops a character that is largely driven by the tides, but what about this culture and history is missed when we’re simply sitting upon the sand, looking out at a horizon line that, when blurred, could be realigned nearly anywhere? Absorb today the history that put this city on the map and see the coastline in a distinctly Virginia Beach way.

Coffee and warning of a looming Hurricane, at Becca

Breakfast at Becca and Tour of the Cavalier Hotel

Nearly 100 years ago, The Cavalier Hotel first opened its doors and brought an undeniable sense of opulence, luxury, and prestige to the city. With a direct rail line leading to the hotel, guests from the Midwest and Northeast flocked here for luxurious getaways and to be a part of the social scene. Through long, wine-laden dinners, friendly croquet matches, nights dancing under the moonlight and seductive smoking lounges, it elevated the city way, way above sea level. Each room featured a claw-footed bathtub that would draw salt water directly from the ocean, if you preferred. The hotel grabbed the attention of seven US presidents as well as Frank Sinatra, Elizabeth Taylor, and other celebrities who laid their heads to rest within its brick walls. F. S. Fitzgerald was inspired by the space and feeling at the Cavalier that he was said to have written part of The Great Gatsby while lounging at the indoor pool, pen and gin in hand, presumedly.

After WWII broke out, the hotel was commandeered by the military and used for radar training (and likely some salt-water bathtub training too…) and in the years after that, began to fall into disrepair. The city’s boardwalk and oceanfront strip was booming and the comparatively brutalist structure did not match the balcony-speckled highrises of the times. A family feud for ownership ended in a court-ordered sale of the hotel in 2012 to The Cavalier Associates, who after 6 years and $84 million in renovations, re-opened its doors in April of 2018.

The stunning chandelier at the hotel’s grand entrance.

The Cavalier has flawlessly recaptured the historic opulence of what the property once was and what it is now. Every reimagined corner, every piece of artwork, every inch of vintage decor embodies a slightly ironic sense of retro glamour. It has revitalized the undeniability of an accommodation becoming a destination. Having a drink at The Fox Hunt brings you back to the historic social club among taxidermied animals and hushed conversation. Sitting upon black-and-white striped chaise lounges by the glamorous indoor pool fills you with a certain Fitzgeraldian inspiration. Having breakfast in the sun-drenched veranda at Becca gives you the confidence that you will be leaving nothing but glamour and historic potential in your wake for the rest of the day. Get the Becca Benedict for a little stack of heaven that is centered upon one of the area’s finest delicacies – local blue crab. Reservations recommended, book yours here. The Cavalier is located at 4200 Atlantic Ave.

Bike Along the Historic Boardwalk

There’s no way to experience the transition of the different time periods, neighborhoods, and landmarks of Virginia Beach than by biking its historic boardwalk. Rent a cruiser from Cherie’s and coast along the coast from 4th to 40th Streets and take in the juxtaposition of sand-and-ocean that has never and will never change (just hush up for now about the ice caps, k?), and everything beyond the boardwalk that is constantly evolving.

Cheesy econo lodges are just a few pedals aways from luxury resorts; iconic ice cream stands compete with farm-and-ocean-to-table experiential restaurants. Pause as hipsters in high-legged one-pieces and cutoff Levi’s cross over the bike path and take a full stop for parents juggling babies and tugging wagons full of sand toys with their portable Tommy Bahama beach-chair-and-cooler-fusions on their backs. Somehow there’s room for it all here. Cherie’s is located all along the boardwalk, but we picked ours up and dropped them off at 4th street location. Info here.

Have a Locally Tropical Lunch at Aloha Snacks

Your trip is going to be a welcome mouthful of mostly oysters and crabcakes but to taste someone transitioning the local bounty into something a little more inventive, head to Aloha Snacks for a refreshing Hawaiian-style “snack” in a former service station. This place is a local surfer’s destination, and we overheard multiple conversations about the surging waves hitting before Hurricane Florence would (not directly!) make landfall. One table was reviewing photos as a local surfer was repeating excitedly, “Dude, I told you I got barrel on that one! I knew I did!” The owner, Jesse, embodies the healthy-but-not-smug vibe of the place, telling me about the menu before leaving me with this overarching explanation – “We just keep it real man.”

Among multiple poke bowls and some Spam iterations that I hadn’t seen outside of Hawaii (I’ve missed you, musubis!!), they plan to add ramen and bone broths in the Fall. The most important thing not to miss here? The Portuguese “malasada” donuts. These custard-filled little pillows of delight are some of the best pastries I’ve ever had. Aloha Snacks is located at 501 Laskin Rd.

Retro vibes inside Aloha Snacks, captured by @hannahelizarmstrong

Discover the Shoreline at Sandbridge + False Cape

Take in the coastline in its most natural state by heading south to Sandbridge. This mostly-residential area is a neighborhood bordered by nearly untouched beaches. There’s no boardwalk, no benches, no burger joints, no lifeguard stands, no rentable comforts. It’s Virginia Beach stripped down and located just south of the strip. It also has access to False Cape State Park, a stunning, secluded park on a peninsula with campsites and kayaking all along the Backbay waterway, stretched over 4.5 acres of untouched land. It’s one of the area’s best-kept secrets, just 15 miles from the touristy shorefront yet it feels worlds away. After the quick 20-minute drive, we parked and crossed the dunes onto the nearly-secluded beach. Bring everything you’ll think you’ll need, but also realize that that’s little more than a towel, bottle of water, sunglasses and sunscreen. Ok, and a screwtop bottle of rose.

The coastline from above.

Get Into History from Above in a WWII Biplane

Instead of diving right into the water, sometimes the best way to gain a new perspective on a coastline to get out and above it. Way above it. In an open-cockpit WW1 Biplane. It wasn’t hard to feel the pride and presence of the military as soon as I landed at the Norfolk airport. Signs, murals, men in uniform, and the sporadic, deafening sound of military jets flying overhead were constant reminders of the presence and history of the military in the area. But if you’re not a history buff or military brat, the best way to fully appreciate the importance of this part of the city’s soul is to take a tour of the Virginia Aviation Museum and take a ride in a real WWII Biplane. Helmet and goggles provided, insisting on being called “Goose” for the flight’s entirety is encouraged, and the views are guaranteed not to be forgotten. Tours run Saturdays only, April 2nd-Oct. 31st. Book your flight here.

Cool Off with a Waterman’s Orange Crush

Cure those post-WWII-flight nerves and head to an iconic spot where the windblown-look is always in style. Waterman’s has been serving up Virginia Beach’s now iconic cocktail, the Orange Crush, since the early 80s, right on the waterfront. The space feels historic, shying away from the bright and flashy tourist trap restaurants along the strip. To sit and sip at the steadfast wooden bar here feels like a trip back in time. Get an orange crush and some oysters or steamed crab legs and admire the black-and-white photography on the walls highlighting the history of the area. Get tipsy enough to finish all of your souvenir shopping at The Beach Nut, the charming little shop inside the restaurant, owned and curated by the owner’s wife. Waterman’s is located at 415 Atlantic Ave.

The iconic fish cleaning shack at Rudee’s Inlet.

Have Dinner al Fresco at Rudee’s

A local favorite. Rudee’s has somehow weathered the storm of the changing tides of the area for over 35 years, concentrating on what it does best: fresh seafood in a no-frills atmosphere served with good drinks by good people. The vibe of the place is like an old fisherman’s social club, situated right beside a marina on its namesake inlet. Sit outside, eat seafood, do it at sunset. Rudee’s is located at 227 Mediterranean Ave.

Enjoy Distillery-to-Glass Drinks at the Hunt Club

Located in the basement of the Cavalier Hotel, end your night where you started it, just a bit further down, in a space that’s bit more seductive, feeling a bit more sunkissed. After absorbing the history and magic that has washed up on the shore in Virginia Beach, think it over in a historic speakeasy and wash it down with the same spirits and haunts were made in the area. The Hunt Club feels like a step back in time with its gnarly brick walls, oversized antique fireplace, unironic taxidermied decor and old-world-wise mixologists.

I was craving the bitter-booziness of a Negroni but wanted to try something from the on-site distillery, so I went for the Boulevardier: 2 parts Tarnished Truth whiskey, 1 part Campari, 1 part sweet vermouth, 5 parts oversized globular icecube. This drink was the perfect mix of nostalgia and innovation, which is the best way to get into the spirit after a full day of exploring.

Day 2: Naturally Inhabitated

Today will be spent appreciating how Virginia Beach has evolved along with its natural surroundings. There’s a reason that you won’t find a city overrun with strip malls and luxury townhomes, chain restaurants and big box retail. The city has sought to preserve and protect its integrity and infrastructure and inevitably, it’s natural surroundings, since its original tourism boom in the 60s. Immerse yourself in its natural beauty today.

Get Lost in First Landing State Park

Virginia Beach has not only been a historically relevant destination for vacationers for over a hundred years, it was also the first place the settlers landed and temporarily settled in, establishing the country’s first elective government in April 1607 before pushing up the James River to Jamestown. Now First Landing is a state park and home to 19 miles of interpretable hiking trails and a maritime community including a Cypress swamp and tidal marsh that is among the most endangered habitats in the world. Walking along the footsteps of our founding fathers filled me with the same creative energy that is now revitalizing the area, and the expansiveness of the natural surroundings and foliage ceiling made me forget all about my concrete city roots. Plan your trip here then get lost.

Lynnhaven oysters, freshly shucked.

Embark on the Pleasure House Oyster Tour

I live in a city surrounded by water that I’m not able to get in or really experience, and would certainly not consider eating from. Even the surrounding oceans have warning signs for pregnant women, elderly people, those with previous health conditions of any kind, humans with digestive systems, pets who aren’t rabid and thus need to die, and basically any being that wants to keep living, to not eat what you find beneath its surface. Virginia Beach has worked to preserve and protect its precious waterways in spite of its 450k residents and 19 million annual visitors. Need proof? How about a boat tour through the Lynnhaven River with captain and oyster farmer Chris Ludford who will scoop, shuck, and slurp down his beloved bivalves right there with you while wading in the water. Farm to table is cute; water to mouth is way, way better. Experience the first-hand the sweetness, the brineyness, the saltiness, the richness, the beauty and complexity of this watery delicacy. Experience it first-hand by the expert-hands that maintain and sustain them. Book your tour here before you visit and expect to wade.

The charming front porch at Sawdust Road Coffee.

Get Back to your Roots in Pungo

Pungo is the area’s farming community, and exploring the area felt like a super spread out Brooklyn neighborhood. The people of Pungo are artists and passionate foodies, making sure that the area serves its community wholly, sustainably, and with a quirky bit of style. My favorite two spots are Sawdust Road Coffee, a charming little cafe in a converted farmhouse. This place embodies what I like to call the “diet south” vibe that Virginia does so well- a little bit country but not overdone; tastefully kitschy, artfully tacky, and completely personal. Get an iced lavender latte and wander around the space, admiring local art and photography. 1791 Princess Anne Rd.

Pop into The Bee and The Biscuit for a light, locally-sourced lunch in a cottage restaurant from the early 1900s. This place fills up fast, especially on the weekends, so go early, grab a sandwich and a local beer and appreciate the history of the space and the area. 1785 Princess Anne Rd.

Stop by the Pungo Board Shop to understand the core of surfing culture in the area. Husband and wife owner’s Dylan and Kari will set you up with surfing lessons, help fix your board or shape a totally new one, and will do anything to make you feel at home at their shop or in the ocean. 1789 Princess Anne Rd.

Have Dinner from a James Beard Award-Winning Chef at Terrapin

Here’s the deal. I’ve grown up around oysters. I appreciate them, I understand them, I am enamored by them. I dine out because of them and return for them. I have also lived abroad and currently live among a culinary landscape naturally curated by cutthroat competition whereby only the strong, the passionate, the perseverent and the talented survive.

Even considering all of my experienced bites, Terrapin in Virginia Beach is one of the best meals I’ve ever had.

A local establishment toeing the balance between the city’s ambitious creative vision and it’s local reality, we dined there on a Wednesday night which happens to be Fried Chicken night. Sound kitschy? Reimagine it through the lens of a James Beard award winning chef; a fluffy-crunchy 1/4 chicken perfectly paired with a pleasantly truffled mac-and-cheese and a glass of pinot noir for $22. This brought in a distinctly local vibe to what could be seen as an unapproachable restaurant, but instead it’s one that you can tell is disinterested with sullying its target market; Terrapin wants to feed and delight its community.

I understood and appreciated the Wednesday Night Special but for all I’d heard of about Terrapin, I needed to be a free-range customer. I shared the charcuterie plate, which included a nearly-melted duck prosciutto and bold beef brasaola; the housemade burrata which came with a welcome pomp and circumstance from the plumpest, ripest, and most regionally seasonably vegetables and crusty, warm bits of sourdough; a crop of shishito peppers of whom’s ripeness I’d yet to understand again outside of Spain; local oysters with a housemade tomatillio minionette that created a perfect flavor waltz as the oyster danced its way upon your senses; and that was just the begininng. We moved onto the second course between sips and then glasses of Pinot Noir. We chose to share the sea scallops with wild, local mushrooms, oven-dried tomatoes and a lightly truffled pan sauce, along with the cannot-be-missed lamb entree in which the meat played took centerstage but even without, the curried eggplant and sweet potato could have held their own. Next came a parade of desserts which almost made us forget about the rest of the meal. Almost. The service was flawless and respectfully more felt than seen. Dinner at Terrapin is for anyone who appreciates an utterly complete dining experience where you will leave with nearly nothing but awe and satisfaction. This is destination dining. Terrapin is located at 3102 Holly Road.

After-Dinner Drinks at Pacifica

For after-dinner drinks and (maybe) a tapa or two, head to Pacifica. I was recommended this spot to get a feel for the local spirit of the city and for unpretentious yet expertly-crafted cocktails. What I received was an outpouring of pride and anecdotes from people who you could tell truly cared about their community. The bar was slightly buzzed and buzzing with the threat of an oncoming Hurricane, a category 5 that was tracking to hit land within a day. However, no one was concerned with evacuation routes or high-wind warnings, instead explaining to me exactly why there was no reason to be concerned. “Virginia Beach will never suffer a direct hit,” I was told confidently, again and again. I learned that the area was spiritually protected, as recognized by the prophet Edgar Cayce, a man known as the father of holistic medicine, who didn’t accidentally choose to settle and build his temple in the city. That the area was a hurricane-proof sanctuary was not a matter of religion or faith, but a matter of fact. “It’s not going to hit us,” I was reminded when I asked for advice about changing my flight. “It just won’t.”

No one was concerned even as flood warnings and evacuation mandates flashed across the television screen. Everyone chose instead to listen to this prohpet’s perpetual forecast. This collective spiritual unconsiousness here that found its way into nearly every conversation. Even as the wind was picking up on my walk home, I felt calm somehow believing in the powerful prophecies of Edvard Casey. And also in the powerful, calming effects of a well-made negroni. Pacifica is located at 214 40th St.

One of so many colorful murals in the WiBe district, captured by @hannahelizarmstrong

Day 3: Get into the Revitalization Vibe

Virginia Beach took the bold move of taking an entire industrial neighborhood that had been abandoned and forgotten and seeing it through a different lens. In true “leap and the net will appear” fashion, it seemed crazy that the city along with developer and philanthropist Andrew Fine, believed into the microneighborhood that is now known (even Jeopardy known!) as the Vibe Creative District. And that belief and energy manifested in the curiosity of creators, inventors, entrepreneurs, movers and shakers that were welcomed in with open arms and outdoor murals and good coffee and a contagious mentality that this could be something, that it will be, that it is something.

My favorite little pastry shop. Photo by @hannahelizarmstrong

Breakfast Pastries atMay’s Parlor

A regionally-progressive bakery for a town whose breakfast landscape was formerly defined by 24-hour pancake spots, May’s Parlor is a pastry lover’s dream. Owner Racheal Browning, a 26-year old Chesapeake-Native with an unmatched talent with French pastry, greeted us when we entered and I noticed her eyes light up as soon as she saw the slight panic of delicious indecision upon my face. “Croissant dough is kind of our specialty,” she told us without bragging. This I soon learned was the most humble way possible of saying, “This is the best goddamn croissant you’ll eat outside of France.”

Even better than they look; our pastry selection at Mays. Photo by @hannahelizarmstrong

As we made our croissant-centric selections (without also ignoring the cream cheese cinnamon bun, the orange-frosted brioche and a not-so-classic BEC), an older man came in. He pointed to something behind the glass. “Would you like that heated sir?” Rachael asked him.

“Oh, these are just display, huh? The real ones are frozen?” he asked with a perceptible Southern accent.

“No sir, we make everything here fresh daily,” she replied patiently.

“Oh. So why do you heat it in the microwave?” he asked pointedly.

“We have a convection oven.”

“Oh.”

Breakfast al fresco at Mays, photo by @hannahelizarmstrong

A regionally-progressive bakery in a town where an older crowd of tourists and residents alike will take time to appreciate and realize the beauty of what a bakery can be and is. May’s Parlor is located at 2708 Pacific Ave.

Black coffee, black jumpsuits, black ink on paper. In my element outside of Three Ships Coffee. Photo by @hannahelizarmstrong

Let Three Ships Coffee Help Steer your Tour of the District

Three Ships is a perfect example of a place that is catering to both the emerging, creative urbanist population of the city and the curious tourist. What I’d heard about Three Ships is that they serve lattes with cereal sprinkled on top. “Sounds cute,” I thought, genuinely. When I entered the vintage-nautical space, the barista welcomed me and asked if I had any questions as I stood in front of a wall of onsite-roasted bags of beans. “I have a French Press?” I answered. He laughed and then came over to me, handling each bag gingerly while explaining to me the roasting technique, the flavor profile, the nose and finish each cup would have as a vintner indulging guests in the complexities of each vintage’s terroir.

Conquering the day with photographer @hannahelizarmstrong and Three Ships Coffee

This was not the kitschy fruity-pebbled experience I expected. I paid for my “God Speed” Ethiopian-Costa Rican blended bag and learned that my purchase came with a free drink. “Iced coffee, black,” I told him. As I left happily sipping, I heard the girl behind me ask, “Y’all are the ones who do that Cinnamon Toast Crunch drink right?” Yes. Yes they do. Three Ships Coffee is located at 607 19th St.

Handmade, heartmade. North End Bags captured by @hannahelizarmstrong

Explore the hub of the ViBe, The Alley

Hidden just behind Three Ships coffee is The Alley, the beating heart of the ViBe district and home to two of its most iconic businesses – North End Bag Co. and Igor’s Signs and St ripes.

In the Alley sporting the 76th St. Tote, photo by @hannahelizarmstrong

It’s a creative cooperative in an old service station that is now fueling the momentum of a new district and perspective of an entire city. The two businesses had a vague connection with the town before they set up roots in the alley. Each can understand first-hand the frustrations and appreciations for the dynamic of their environment. Both wholeheartedly recognize that if it wasn’t for the welcoming, appreciation,

Causing trouble outside of Igors Signs with photographer @hannahelizarmstrong

Owners Dwayne and Rachel Appleton, photo by @hannahelizarmstrong

Enjoy Lunch and Community at Java Surf Cafe

It feels like these days, there’s an equation to perfection. Bright lights, white marble surfaces, small plates, farm names, and iterations of avocado toast will make the people and their iPhone cameras flock to your establishment and therein lies your branding. Right? Well, not if you give a damn. Or are bold enough to go against the grain and to fight the tide in order to build something that has never existed before. Husband and wife business owners and entrepreneurs Dwayne and Rachel Appleton have been shaping the brand behind Java Surf Cafe for six years, and every corner, color, creation and crumb in their charming cafe is evidence of that.

The sun-drenched, colorful terrace outside of Java Surf

More than a coffee spot, their community-focused space also is a gallery for local artists, a yoga studio in the evenings, and a meeting place for local organizations and happenings. Sit outside among the rainbow of tables and chairs, in front of one of 60+ murals in the district and understand the creative community and spirit that defines the ViBe district and those who often start and end their days with this emphatic couple. Java Surf Cafe is located at 1807 Mediterranean Ave.

Tasting at Chesapeake Bay Distillery, captured by @hannahelizarmstrong

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Tasting at Chesapeake Bay Distillery, captured by @hannahelizarmstrong

Get Into the Spirits at Chesapeake Bay Distillery

Chris Richeson, the master distiller and inventive mind behind Chesapeake Bay Distillery is by a highly intellectual loose cannon of sorts and the type of wild spirit cannot be contained. Yet, for some reason and somehow, he has made his business in containing the unpredictability of spirit distillation. He has a distinctly mischevious look in his eyes, always; like he’s about to get caught doing something he’s not supposed to be doing. And after all, when you look at it closely, should anyone be distilling liqour that is constantly winning this many awards, available for an insanely reasonable price, out of an unsuspecting repurposed industrial space in Virginia Beach? I’m onto you, Chris. And way into your spirits. Read the full story in my Profile of a Hustler series here (coming soon!) and in the meantime, recreate the spirit and mischevious flavors that imbibe and invigorate the renaissance of the area here with a drink recipe from the master himself:

Cucumber Basil Martini

3/4 oz pureed English cucumber

2 oz. Blue Ridge Vodka

3/4 oz. lime

1/2 oz. Triple Sec

1 Basil Leaf

Shake, strain, serve up with a fresh basil leaf

Chesapeake Bay Distillery is located at 437 Virginia Beach Blvd.

Have a Locally-Sourced Dinner at Atlantic on Pacific

They say that the first trackable food review was written in a journal kept by John Smith after sampling some Virginia oysters. Those oysters, from the Lynnhaven River, were something to behold and remember and certainly to write home about. Thus it’s not surprising that so many culinary havens have now popped up to feature and celebrate the respected bivalves. Atlantic on Pacific is a new destination that is now helping to define Virginia Beach’s culinary scene, a place built from the waters but expanding the minds and tastes of all who cross through the brightly lit, brass-and-marble accented space aptly located on Pacific Ave. Their menu is locally sourced and rooted in Southern inspiration with nearly no geographical boundaries. We had the Blue Crab and Corn hush puppies with honey-jalapeno (which were far from your Southern BBQ joint’s dense, weathered pups), the colorful and delectable crab toast, and the indulgent steak tartare to add a little land-lubbing to the mix.

I chose to imbibe with an oyster dirty martini that tasted like the sea and came with a raw, freshly shucked and bamboo-speared oyster. Atlantic on Pacific has an exciting, internationally-inspired and regionally-based menu and a refreshing cocktail list that builds you up from the garnish down. Local flavors, honest food, and an experience (and happy hour!) that will keep you coming back. Atlantic on Pacific is located at 3004 Pacific Ave.

Get buzzed at Auntie’s. Photo from their Instagram @auntiestiki

Get Carried Away at Auntie’s Tiki Bar

Among the best part of the changing creative landscape of the area is the introduction of authentic international cuisines and cultures in the area. Far from the categorized brochure of restaurants I was handed upon arrival that included Chinese take-out spots and a few further inland Taco Bell locations, these restaurants are creating experiences that will immerse you in cultures far from the Eastern Virginia coast. Auntie Tiki’s, a lively new Filipino spot and tiki bar, is the pinnacle of creating the unexpected immersive travel experience just steps from the eastern shores of Virginia. Known for its non-kitschy tropical cocktail menu, Auntie’s also features a dinner menu and exotic yet familiar social scene that is miles away from the cheesy beachfront bar. Get carried away at a place that feels far away, with people who seem just like family.

Auntie’s Tiki is located at 4312 Holland Rd.

Winter Park | City Guides for the Urban Nomad

Liz Norment — Fri, 13 Jul 2018 18:54:37 +0000

Orlando is not usually a destination at the top of the list for urban nomads. One of the biggest cities in the country and the third most visited is shrowded with the unignorable reputation of being a family-friendly tourist trap. But when have you ever let one message cover up the reality of a place?

You haven’t.

We went to Orlando to see what there was to discover and what was being drowned out by the the screams of thrillseekers, hidden by the sticky fingers of cotton-candied kids or occupied by exasperated parents.

That isn’t to say we didn’t go to the parks. But as urban nomads and curious travelers, we avoid tourist traps like the plague, which can be hard to do in Orlando. We weren’t tempted to stay at a themed-resort nearly within the grounds of the park for a hot discount. We didn’t need a luxury hotel to tempt us to be within “steps” of downtown Orlando. We wanted a localized experience and a hotel with a soul instead of a cheesy theme. We wanted a town that we could explore on foot. We wanted restaurants with curious menus and well-thought-out dishes delivered to us by a server, not a mascot.

And that’s how we happened upon Winter Park. A charming town that was born out of a New Yorker’s desire for a dynamic destination for the cold season, a place that has a soul and an attraction for northern city-dwellers who demand more from their escapes than oceanfront mindlessness.

We came to find what was originally sought from this paradise and, inevitably, to get a little break from the city without being too far from a city.

We show you how we did it here, with our urbanist guide to Winter Park.

Where to Stay

The Alfond Inn

I’ve wanted to sleep in an art gallery since I read From The Mixed Up Files From Mrs. Basil E. Frankweiler. The allure of sleeping within and waking among the creations of so many artists breeds a certain amount of creative excitement that I find myself seeking every day. And that is how it felt to enter, wander around, sleep within, and wake up inside The Alfond Inn, a hotel and art gallery and the pinnacle part of our experience in Winter Park.

The Alfond Inn is a stunning, hacienda-esque boutique hotel with a soul. Built on the campus of Rollins College, it is the only hotel in the world that gives 100% of its revenue beyond operating expenses to the Alfond Fund, a charity for college students and far beyond. Which means I had absolutely no qualms about saying yes to an additional cocktail at the bar, upgrading to a more expensive bottle of wine at dinner, for opting for the king suite.

The hotel was planned and built as part of the Alfond Fund, a philanthropic endeavor started in 1950 by Harold Alfond. His son Ted shared in this philanthropic spirit and after meeting his wife Barbara and the two graduating from Rollins College, they wanted to give back to the school that had given them so much.

Ted and Barbara wanted to further their commitment to the college while also providing a way for others to experience the community they loved. They purchased a plot of land right in the center of town and on the edge of the campus that they gave to the college along with a detailed business plan. They wanted to build a hotel that was far from the kitschy-themed Orlando hotels, one that was deeply rooted in the community, and, inevitably, as a place to display their extensive collection of modern and contemporary art. With a circulation of over 300 pieces of art throughout the hotel, individually curated by Ted and Barbara themselves, even just a short trip to the ice machine will have you browsing world-renowned art work in your hotel robe and bare feet.

While there isn’t a unifying theme to the pieces they choose to display, the most refreshing element is that every piece makes you think. This is not mindless hotel decor, these are in-your-face larger-than-life photos exposing the painful truth of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict; there are bold signs redefining what you think of femininity; there are disorienting, daunting yet enchanting suspended sculptures. There is shameless, shocking, and provocative art that makes you think while also provides a refreshing, interactive element to the decor.

And within this art-forward approach to a hotel lies an experience committed to service; a connection with the community that makes you feel like a local; a pristine rooftop pool that makes you feel oh-so-far from the city. There’s a bartender who somehow knows exactly what you’re looking for and how you like your negronis. There is a level of comforting luxury that is unmatched by any chain hotel with a 5-star rating. There is an on-site poodle who has never met a guest he didn’t fall in love with. There is an element of magic at the Alfond Inn that we were completely enchanted by.

The Alfond Inn helped us experience greater Orlando and fall in love with Winter Park. We successfully avoided the tourist traps and found that hyper-localized city experience we crave as Brooklynites. It helped us feel good while being a little bad and overindulging at the bar, for philanthropic reasons only. It showed us that a hotel stay shouldn’t simply be a passive experience; it should keep you engaged, enchanted, and comfortably enveloped within its walls. It’s where you should stay not only in Winter Park, but also where you should go to develop a more cultural understanding of an area that has been captured my kitschy tourism. Book your stay here and experience the magic of the Alfond Inn.

300 E New England Ave.

Where to Dine

Dinner at Luma

When we heard this was “Paul Mccartney’s favorite restaurant” we obviously knew we had to go. We posted up at the sleek art-deco bar and ordered the steak tartare, the steakhouse wedge, the stinging nettle tortellini. Every dish was perfectly balanced, meticulously plated, and damn good. The bartenders kept the atmosphere down-to-earth with their casual coolness and genuine excitement of the area. Luma is not to be missed. Plus, you just might see Paul there.

290 South Park Ave

Happy Hour at Prato

Easily the hottest spot in town, this place fills up fast so we chose to sit at the bar for happy hour. The bartenders here know what they’re doing, which is refreshing for a couple of New York bartenders who have reasonably high standards.

What we didn’t know was that the same chef, Brandon McGlamery, leads both Luma and Prato. However, the menus and flavors were dynamic enough at each to make it hard to believe that it came from the same person. If Luma is Winter Park’s upscale yet approachable culinarily adventurous destination, Prato is definitively it’s hipper, edgier cousin. We chose the Blistered Shishitos, the Margherita pizza, and the Bone-In Skate. Every dish felt like an international adventure of flavor while still staying true to the terroir of Florida. For happy hour cocktails, we went with the Citriolo and the Italica, which perfectly matched the refreshing yet seductive vibe of the space. Happy hour is Monday-Friday, 4-6pm but if you can’t get there in time, make a reservation for dinner.

124 N Park Ave

prato-wp.com

Where to get out of (but still be kind of in) the daily thunderstorm

BurgerFi

It’s Florida, and part of the beauty of the tropical weather is those early evening thunderstorms that rush in nearly daily, hit hard for about 45 minutes, then move on. When you see it coming, duck into BurgerFi for BOGO beers. Sit outside (under the awning) and watch the storm pass through. And yeah, ok, get some fries. Storms are scary. Comfort food is necessary.

538 S. Park Ave.

burgerfi.com

What to Do

Explore Winter Park’s Historic Shopping District

The shopping scene in Winter Park is aimed at the wealthy resort visitor, but which is why I was surprised to come across this charming little gypsy shop on Park Ave. Forema is one of those small-town boutiques you dream of. Perfectly merchandised with that gypsy-soul vibe but with prices that make it seem like it’s going out of style. And you and me and Instagram all know it isn’t. Go here for that one thing you want to get yourself to remind you of your trip that’s way more functional than a magnet or tiny spoon; think fringe bags, statement earrings, gladiator sandles. Located at 300 N Winter Park Ave. Get inspired here first.

Explore World-Class Art Museums

Winter Park may have been founded as a city slicker’s escape but it’s developed into a cultural gem of a town, mainly from its focus on curating world-renowned art. Here you’ll find the Morse Museum, home of the largest collection of Tiffany Glass in the world, and the Cornell Fine Arts Museum, a diverse collection focusing on engagement that reasonably mirrors the audacity and impact of the artwork at The Alfond, as it also houses the Alfond’s contemporary collection.

The Morse Museum is located at 445 N. Park Ave. Plan to spend 1-2 hours. Tickets and info here.

The Cornell Fine Arts Museum is located at 1000 Holt Ave, on the Rollins Campus. Plan to spend an hour strolling the grounds and at least two more inside the museum. Info here.

Winter Park Boat Tour

It’s apparent as soon as you arrive in Winter Park that the community has a penchant for structural opulence. Stunning hacienda-style houses and resort-inspired mansions line the streets but the biggest, best, and most architecturally-rich can only be seen by water. Take this 2.5 hour boat tour through the chain of lakes around the area to feel the sun on your skin, the wind in your hair, and a mix of marvel and pure jealousy in your heart. Hey, at least you’ll be able to visualize your goals a little better, right? Tours leave from 312 E. Morse Boulevard and leave from 10am-4pm. $14 for adults. Info here.

The Theme Parks

It’s ok, you should. Honestly, you should. But fighting traffic, lines, pedestrian-illiterate families and $16 beers, you’ll be more than happy to be returning to Winter Park at the end of the day. We did Universal Studios and Island of Adventure, obviously, for Harry Potter. Yes, you must do both to get the full experience. Yes, the speed pass is worth it. And no, unfortunately, the wand is not. Borrow mine.

If you need more info on this, consult any of these Disney focused blogs.

Stay on mine for engaging content on obscure destinations and inspiration to keep seeking.

Escape The City | Baltimore, Maryland

Liz Norment — Thu, 12 Apr 2018 18:28:47 +0000

It’s time we all shake off our impenetrable opinions of Baltimore. How do we do this? Start by repeating after me: The Wire was a TV show, and unfortunately, there’s crime everywhere. We cannot dismiss this prominent city along the East Coast because of a few statistics and an all-too-convincing crime scene series. Baltimore is known as Charm City for more reasons than just that the Pandora headquarters is there (if there’s anything to hold a grudge about, let the birthplace of those sterling silver soccer mom bracelets be the only thing.)

I met up with my Richmond counterpart and lifelong partner-in-crime-and-travel Hannah as we met about halfway along 95 and descended upon this harbor town. What we found on our weekend escape that “charm city” was determinedly, well, charming. A town surrounded by and energized by water, from the stunning views of the inner harbor to the fresh seafare served nearly everywhere, we found a culture of people that were equal parts proud and polite with a touch of rowdiness. We found an experience that was affordable and intriguing and made us realize that there was so much more to discover than just a weekend allowed.

However, a weekend we had and thus, we dove right in.

We’ve curated a guide to Charm City of all of our favorite spots so you can build your weekend escape. Get off the wire and into the harbor, get out of town and into Baltimore.

Graphic setting inside the historic Hotel Kimpton Monaco, by @hannahelizarmstrong

Talk Like A Local

What is the whole “hun” thing?

Marylanders don’t really have an accent. Situated right in the middle of the East Coast, they just miss that subtle, charming Virginia twang but aren’t mired in whatever the hell is happening with people’s voices in Pennsylvania. They don’t have an accent, but they do have a way of speaking…

Before visiting Baltimore, I was asked if I knew about this “hon” culture. “It’s like when people use the word Hon… that type of warmth and friendliness people have,” I was completely confused. Isn’t that just a term of endearment used by waitresses at diners, and when I want to sarcastically prove a point to my lover?

Nope. It’s a whole culture, which is as simple and confusing as it sounds. “Hon”, which is short for honey, embodies the warmth and affection historically bestowed upon residents and visitors of Baltimore, traditionally by the working women of the city. They have a “hun” festival for it that started as a pageant of women with big, teased beehives and gaudy jewelry and anything with a flamingo on it. Check out these photos to give you a better understanding. Still confused? Take a walk around Baltimore and you’ll understand real quick. This warm kindness and lack of hesitance to give it all to you as you walk down the street was pervasive, and contagious. I felt the harsh new yorker in me slowly being replaced by this lovely “bawlmor” charm. (Oh yeah… that’s a whole thing too) (link)

Baltimore’s infamous crushes, at Loch Bar. Captured by @hannahelizarmstrong (who can’t stop crushing it)

Drink Like A Local

This city is surrounded by water but seems to float upon a steady stream of Natty Boh and Crushes. Natural Bohemian, or Natty Boh, is Baltimore’s official beer, was originally brewed there in 1885 and can be found in every bar, corner store, and in the hands of most locals at most times of the day. An easy-drinking pilsener, it pairs best with crablegs and baseball, which is really fucking convenient. The beer’s mascot, Mister Boh, is this smooth casanova cyclops that is married to the Utz girl. because, well, look at them.

The other official drink of the town is any type of “crush” which is basically a sweet liquor drink undeceptively poured over crushed iced. These are served nearly everywhere, and they come in a million different flavor combinations. We found them a little on the sweet side, so we kept trying them, and trying them, and trying them, thinking perhaps there was a varying level of sweetness yet realized that they are always always sweet and also that they will get you drunk. Overall, it’s a refreshing, intoxicating part of being in Baltimore.

Where To Drink It

Max’s Taphouse

With Natty Boh spearheading the beer industry in this town, like so many East Coast cities, Baltimore has had a microbrewery boom in the past ten years, and Max’s seems to have tapped right into all of it. Come and enjoy over 50 beers, both local, domestic, and international drafts, plus a casual and oh-so-local and thus oh-so-friendly atmosphere that will make you want to stay, and sip, for a while. Plan your visit here. 737 S Broadway.

Woody’s Cantina

An excellent place to pregame. This taqueria and taquillaria is the answer to everything you’ve been searching for. Order a painkiller, level 2… which had me feeling no pain and in search of mischief. Which I suppose is what got us into trouble Saturday night. Find yours here. 821 S Broadway.

The Horse You Rode In On

Why should you end your night at the bar that Edgar Allen Poe was last seen alive at? There’s a certain air of mischief that surrounds this place, something inevitably haunting about this local haunt; a shroud of mystery that finds itself enhanced in the bottom of a glass and ignited by shots of tequila.

Or at least, that’s how I justified it. We’d heard through too many people that the horse you rode in on was the best place for late-night dancing in the city, and I was more than sold simply by the name and the stories surrounding it. History is best absorbed with some libations, and Hannah and I stuck with gin and tonics and tequila shots. Which was reckless at best but kept us dancing all night. And then, maybe, switching shifts in the night to attempt to silently vomit up our sins into the hotel toilet without waking the other. Ride and die here. 1626 Thames St. #getrichbepoe

Hannah and the Ivy at The Ivy, captured by yours truly.

The Ivy

The dark, seductive bar is a perfect juxtaposition to the bright, open courtyard of this charming boutique hotel, and the cocktails seem to provide the perfect balance between both. Bright and subtle with an edge, we had the bartender mix us up some special concoctions that sipped well from the historic dining room and out into the ivy-covered terraces. Start sipping here. 205 E Biddle St.

Magic hour at Loch Bar, captured by @hannahelizarmstrong

Loch Bar

Your ideal spot for that transition from day tripping into nightlife, the sunsets here will help you sip and slip into that mischief-seeking maven you and I both know you are. Scroll down to read more about the Loch bar experience, but what you need to know is that the view and scene are best complimented by oysters and cava and something slug from an animal hoove. (just scroll down)

Eat Like A Local

Crabs, oysters, and any fish that can be bought off of the back of a fishing boat at early dawn, Baltimore is a city that lives off of and celebrates the livelihood provided by its surroundings. From traditional crab shacks to more refined and inventive restaurants, we found the city’s food scene to be nothing less than intriguing and very pleasantly fishy.

Steaming up the scene at L. P. Steamers, through the lens of @hannahelizarmstrong

LP Steamers

I’ve made LP Steamers a permanent stop every single time I’ve been in Baltimore since I was a kid. This no-frills eatery located in locust point and you can smell it blocks away, crabs and old bay and natty boh blend together into an intoxicating aroma that you can’t walk away from. sit on the roof. get a pitcher of bo for $9. it comes with a melt-proof ice column to keep the beer cold because if you know anything about crab picking, it’s a long, arduous, and rewarding process that keeps your hands rather occupied. but of course, goes way smoother with a crisp pilsener. there will be a wait, so prepare to accordingly. then sit and pick and don’t miss the hush puppies either. Prepare for your wait here. 1100 E Fort Ave.

How Baltimore does pork buns; steamed, stuffed, and paired with a bottomless BYOB special. Every night. Shared here from the lens of @hannahelizarmstrong

Ekiben Buns

Pork buns, in a harbor town? yep. we found them and boy am i glad. hannah and i sniff out pork buns in every town, from taipei to madrid to new york to baltimore. At Eikiben, the buns are massive and full of flavor, so just one is plenty to fill you up. It’s also byob so hannah and I ordered plenty of bao to accompany our bottle of cava, and yes, we finished everything and left satisfied and quite bubbly. (which is a euphemism for tipsy.) Get your buns here now. 1622 Eastern Ave.

It’s not lazy, it’s indulgent. Which is fine by me. Breakfast in bed through the lens of @hannahelizarmstrong

Breakfast in Bed, at the Kimpton

So I kind of hate brunch. Why? Because it takes up way too much of the day. We skipped this popular city institution for a perfect breakfast in bed, admittedly, to better prepare ourselves for the day ahead and maybe because we couldn’t quite pull ourselves out of the immensely cozy beds at the Kimpton. We ordered room service when we woke up Saturday morning, mostly because there is nothing more indulgent than ordering room service breakfast, and we were on vacation. Kind of. This level indulgence at least juxtaposed day-to-day life in Brooklyn enough to mentally take us away. We simply asked the kitchen to send us up two of their favorite dishes, and we appreciated and enjoyed every bite of the “healthy” eggs benny and chorizo scramble. Plus the carafe full of coffee helped scoot us out the door.

Basically Cuba. By @hannahelizarmstrong

Little Havana

We happened upon Little Havana out of necessity really. We were hungry and tipsy after our afternoon at the tiki barge and needed something quick before our next appointment. Quickly we realized that Little Havana should have been on our list all along. Great outdoor space that stretches out into the bay, fresh seafood, and big mojitos. Pop in, cool off, fill up, reset. Need it here now. 1325 Key Hwy.

The view from Loch Bar, captured by @hannahelizarmstrong

Loch Bar

For your transition into nightlife, hit up Loch Bar for sunset, oysters, and a plenty of people watching. Located at the foot of the Four Seasons, this is definitively a fancy little spot in charm city. We both laughed at the sign as we entered “no visible undergarments”. Fortunately, we never wear bras and tonight was no exception. We will comply, Loch Bar. Don’t you worry about anything but a possible #nipslip.

We sat outside and sipped cava and slurped fresh, local oysters as well as a few from up north. A table near us bought us a shot from the bar that was poured from an animal hoove (thank you…?) and then came over and introduced themselves. As was the theme for the weekend, they were incredibly friendly and full of advice of things to do in the city, and helped explain why we had been met with some confusion every time we said we were here by way of Brooklyn. “There’s a Brooklyn here in Baltimore,” they said. “But, it’s not a place you want to go. Ever.” Noted, although it did spark our curiosity. Get your drinks on loch now. 240 International Drive.

What Not To Miss

Inner Harbor

In a city surrounded by water, so many things revolve around this Chesapeake Bay and inner harbor. There’s a picturesque running track that surrounds most of the harbor that would convince even quitters to keep going, public beach volleyball courts for both social spikers and commited volleyers, kayak and jetski rentals that allow you to test your thrill level, by the hour, and chartered fishing tours, dinner cruises, and rent-your-own vessel that allow you to feel like Huck Finn or Jack Sparrow or Cristobal Colon or you know, just choose your own water-logged fantasy. It’s all here for you.

A vision from the American Visionary Art Museum, shot by @hannahelizarmstrong

American Visionary Art Museum

If there was ever an example of expressionism, be it not in the traditional sense, this would be it. Art for the sake of expression. A museum dedicated and built for intuitive, self-taught artists, it is a conglomeration of the experiences, inner thoughts, outward feelings and moments of pain and joy and frustration and fear and lust and life. Walking through it, you will experience sculptures dedicated to the pain and waning hope of a bipolar and thus unintentional felon’s experience in prison, a two-story actively-twirling whirligig’s (yes, that’s a technical term), an installation dedicated to farts with a button to press and hear real-ife pre-recorded farts and an old man who collected them all and laughs along with you as if it’s the first time, and a world-class collection of pez dispensers. It’s a museum that sheds away the pretense of museums and happily presents art for the expression it makes and impression it leaves. Plan to spend three hours here, including the sculpture garden and the huge museum outpost just next door, full of larger-than-life sculptures and tiny interactive wooden animations that come alive with the push of a button and will keep you enthralled for hours if you’re not carefull. Plan your visit here. 800 Key Highway

Eating all the hot dogs and drinking all the boh’s watching the O’s, with @hannahelizarmstrong

Camden Yards

The season may have just started, but the Orioles have a team that just might take them all the way this year. Even if they didn’t, Camden Yards is one of the most remarkable stadiums in baseball. historic and inviting, the stadium is located right in the center of the city and surrounded by industrial brick buildings that have been converted now into offices and apartments inhabited by some damn lucky locals. What I found remarkable was that regardless of where your seats are, they have plenty of open areas with high-top standing tables and lookout points that put you almost onto the field. Bring a glove or at least a receptive elbow. Snag a fly ball or natty boh or both. Look alive and get in the spirit of the team that carries the city and just might take the series this year. Get tickets here.

Little piece of paradise floating in the harbor. Shot by @hannahelizarmstrong

Tiki Barge and Pool

When we heard there was a floating pool in the Inner Harbor, especially coming from a distinctly pool-deprived Brooklyn (with the exception of the voluntarily off-limits public pools and involuntarily off-limits hotel rooftop pools), this was at the top of the list. Which we regret to inform you is unfortunately off-limits to non-inner-harbor-boat-owners, and, well, us. We got in. And it was just as we expected a floating little urban tropical paradise to be, with too-sweet crush-worthy cocktails and not-so-smooth-talking yacht captains. Find a way in here. Just don’t tell them we sent you. 500 Harborview Drive.

Where to Stay

One thing we really loved about this city is that it didn’t feel as economically divided as New York does. Getting drinks at sunset along the inner harbor with yacht owners and hipsters alike was as accessible and affordable as getting beers at a pub on the way to the Orioles game, and the same goes for places to stay all over the city. Hidden in the edgy, artistic, and colorful gayborhood is one of the most unique and also high-brow accommodations you can find, and right in the inner harbor is a safe and eclectic hostel that will cost you around $40 a night.

The historic Hotel Kimpton Monaco, by @hannahelizarmstrong

Kimpton Hotel Monaco Baltimore

We crashed right in between at the Hotel Kimpton Monaco in downtown Baltimore. The beaux-arts architecture of the building embodies the glamour of travel from the early 19th century. Formerly the B&O Railroad headquarters, it embodies the glamour of travel of the early 20th century, balanced with plenty of modern charm for the urban explorer. The captivating marble staircase is flooded with sunlight through ornate stained glass windows, greeting guests with warmth and a certain artistic charm upon entry. The hotel staff is professional, accommodating, and offer plenty of personal recommendations to enhance the experience. We imbibed in the nightly wine hour from 5-6 which helped us unwind and prepare for the evening’s activities. Stay here for a unique and historical perspective on the city, for an ideal location and staff that will make you feel right at home, if home if an ornate mansion from the early 1900s. Book your stay here. 2 N Charles St.

Inside the stunning Ivy Hotel, by @hannahelizarmstrong

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Inside the stunning Ivy Hotel, by @hannahelizarmstrong

The Ivy

for the luxury traveler, this unexpected and historic boutique hotel is the pinnacle of living the high life located right in Baltimore’s most colorful art neighborhood, Mount Vernon. The weekend we visited was pride week, and we were energized by the passionate and loving parades and celebrations on every corner. Upon entering The Ivy, we felt welcomed, and admittedly, fancy as fuck. This hotel aims to create an experience for the traveler that is comfortable and seamless, our tour guide explained. Everything is self-serve in the hotel, meaning you can make yourself a drink whenever you want from any of the unmanned pop-up bars that put the antiquated mini-bar to shame. You can sit and read a book in the study, you can play the piano in the parlor, you can bring your pets. Every room had a different theme and were somehow artistically stunning yet approachable. Every inch spoke to the desired aesthetic. “This chair is from africa, and it’s beautiful but, look…” he sat down. “you can’t sit in it. this is a chair you can’t sit in.” but it’s beautiful, We all agreed.

We went down to the restaurant and had cocktails. We took photos in the courtyard. The chef came out and explained to us the menu, and how he has seen the hotel evolve over the years from a simple row house into what it was today. Every staff member seemed like part of a family, proud of what The Ivy had developed into, and proud to be a part of it.

This experience is guaranteed to be one that you cant find anywhere else. Start yours here. 205 East Biddle St.

HI Baltimore Hostel

This is your best budget option and one for those traveling solo or who want a more social experience. HI Hostel is in a prime location right on the inner harbor and despite its budget-centric approach, is still dripping with local charm. Built in a historic row house, it’s safe, clean, with a friendly, hip, and knowledgeable staff. Expect social areas that are welcoming and unintentionally engaging, nightly events that help you experience the city through a local lens, a clean and convenient communal kitchen, and you know… bunk beds man. And you aren’t above bunk beds. Or, below them I suppose. A hostel this nice is a rarity in so many industrial US cities, and it’s a great option to keep money in your pocket for shellfish and natty boh’s. Beds start at $25. Book now here. 17 W Mulberry St.

How To Get There

The train is always my preferred method of domestic travel when possible, and the 2.5 ride from the city seems all too short. Plus, I love the abandoned industrial underbelly of Baltimore that you see as you’re just before arriving to the station. tickets are usually around $100-150 round trip, aim to buy over 30 days out for the best prices. Research and purchase right here.

Given it’s proximity to New York, and, well, depending on the severity of your hangover, bus travel is entirely tolerable. I intended to take the Megabus for $25 on the way down, but missed it and ended up on the chinatown bus and thus increasing my awareness of my hangover. on the way back, the bolt bus was… well, ok i thought i was going to die given the wild saturday night we had. but, i made it back in under 3 hours and for $50 round trip, i can usually tolerate almost anything. Book your trip on Megabus or Bolt Bus now.

Keep Me, Posted | Ibiza, Spain

Liz Norment — Mon, 02 Apr 2018 21:32:42 +0000

I went there to get the wild out and then it got in me. This island of sin and sand that you can’t ever wash clean. You find it, days later, weeks later. Hiding in crevices and waiting in darkness. You cast it away as if it was never on you, it was never yours. And then you find yourself drifting, wishing, flying back to that place to finally absolve yourself, to forgive yourself, to dance yourself clean, to get the wild out.

Or to let it back in.

Keep Me, Posted | Paris, France

Liz Norment — Mon, 12 Mar 2018 21:40:12 +0000

There was always something of you in Paris. Bright, inviting cafes full of life juxtaposed by dark, narrow, and haunting alleyways. Tall grandiose structures gleaming in audacity and significance, and deep catacombs desperately seeking remembrance, inhabitants, voices, whispers, any disruption to the stillness and stagnation. Oysters and Chablis and ash-worn cheeses that tempted and teased the tongue before engaging your entire body in some erotic, mystic tantra, and baguettes and table wine on the grass in the park by the cemetery that took on the depth and glamour of the conversation through which they were consumed, entombed, appreciated. Maps and memories marked with museums and dingy apartments and stained-glass shrouded cathedrals and lichen-adorned gravestones.

Your beauty and mystery, your dark soul and bright smile. Your tenacious complexity, baby, was always what drew me in and pushed me away and made it so to this day, I’ll never forget

Paris or you.

Keep Me, Posted | Barcelona, Spain

Liz Norment — Wed, 28 Feb 2018 23:06:44 +0000

Each footstep was bathed in significance, there upon those city streets. The faintest tap felt like thunder. My high-heel upon Gaudi’s tiles left imprints upon ancient, intricate carvings. My steps traced cracks in pavement like the innavigable veins running through my body, with blood that was pulsing finally and freely, for that city. My soul came alive with every step, every impact, every moment.

As I tiptoed through the narrow streets of the gothic quarter, as I climbed confidently and wholly up the steps of the cathedral at the highest point of the city, as I chased that magic serpentine of Mediterranean shoreline laughing as the water kissed at my heels. That city was mine as soon as I arrived and it took parts of me, split and splintered and shattered upon it with every step I took. With every step, it took. With every start my heart split apart and was left, broken and suffering but beating still. Still beating. And even the faintest tap feels like thunder.

Where To Stay In Winter Park | The Alfond Inn

Liz Norment — Fri, 16 Feb 2018 21:09:34 +0000

The Alfond Inn

300 E New England Ave.

Escape, Upstate | Beacon, New York

Liz Norment — Fri, 19 Jan 2018 18:49:21 +0000

You know how you feel whenever some smarmy finance douche is at your local bar in Brooklyn? The beer tastes a bit rancid, shots of Jameson go down twice as hard, and every song sounds like Taylor Swift, empty and mindless and fleeting; everything feels a bit disturbed somehow. And in Beacon, we are those disturbers. If there’s one thing I learned, it’s that as much as the town appreciates being the apple of the Big Apple’s cold weather travel eye, it also kind of hates us. Rent has gone up with the influx of us seeking a weekend away. Low-income housing in town was pushed across the river. Bars and restaurants have adopted an almost town-wide Thursday through Sunday schedule to cater to visitors instead of maintaining a consistent local presence. So how do we support this town without smothering it?

We approach it consciously. We respect the businesses there and the people working within them. We have conversations that represent us well. We listen. We act as diplomats and travelers who seek to learn from and give to a space without disrupting it. We go against the tide and realize that gentrification is an unstoppable reality but conscientious human interaction is a responsibility. And certainly makes for a much better trip.

Here’s how we did it.

Where to Stay in Beacon

The Roundhouse

The Roundhouse represents a belief in and respect for the history and future of the town. Originally a property of factory buildings dating back to the early 1800s, the property was purchased and transformed in 2010 by a local family who had a vision for the abandoned space. Despite temptations and insistence of advisers and structural engineers to tear it down and rebuild, the family believed in and respected the property and converted everything they could out of what already existed to become this industrial-chic haven right along a stunning natural waterfall.

This is the place to stay in Beacon. It’s locally owned and built from within an old warehouse and mill, so it supports the city without reconstructing or upheaving the structural integrity of Beacon. The hotel embodies the urban industrialism inherent of the town. Every room feels like a minimalist mountain bungalow, and most have big windows that overlook the falls, and the constant, rushing water fills the void perfectly for silence-averse urban ears. Opt for a Deluxe Room (with a view!) that curves out over the falls and let the sound of rushing water (and not rush hour) sing you to sleep, and the mountain sunrise wake you up. That is, if you can force yourself to get out of the unbelievably plush beds that tempt even the most explorer-minded travelers to stay in bed all day. 2 East Main St. roundhousebeacon.com

Where to Drink in Beacon

Dogwood

To feel like a local and fit in like a local, you have to go where the locals go. Dogwood embodies a unique balance of dive bar and local pub and maintains an unpretentious, approachable, and utterly drinkable atmosphere. Go here for the local beers and impressive cocktails and good conversation. Check their website for weekly events. It’s the bar you’ve been looking for since wherever and whenever home was. Plan to stay for a few and be prepared to both listen to and defend your presence in town to a crowd that is friendly, open, and honest. 47 East Main St. dogwoodbar.com

Draught Industries

The best place in town for beer drinkers. This narrow, straightforward bar isn’t trying to appeal to the expectations of city dwellers. It has a rotating tap of microbrews that are all balanced and distributed by a Flux Capacitor, which is basically the future of beer storing and pouring. And they taste crisp and future-fresh. 394 Main St. draughtindustries.com

Oak Vino

For a break from the burgeoning beer scene, this is a perfect place for wine drinkers in town. New York is the 3rd biggest wine producer in the US (followed closely by Virginia, just FYI) and this wine bar highlights and appreciates the variety of vintages the state produces, along with plenty of old world companions. Opt for the charcuterie plate and stay for a few glasses. Leave with a bottle to cozy up with pre-dinner with your lover (we aren’t the only one who does that… right?) 389 Main St.

Where to Eat

The Roundhouse

Maintaining the presence and aesthetic of the hotel itself, the restaurant at the Roundhouse features a nightly rotating menu prioritizing local ingredients and reimagining them in inventive, minimal, and flavor-forward dishes. We enjoyed the seasonal Kale Salad with dried apples, Grassfed Ribeye (which was even too big for the two of us to share), a delicate Salmon Tartare with trout roe, and an unnecessary (but oh-so-appreciated) Wright Farm Apple Confit for dessert.

To drink, we stared with a cider from Naked Flock served appropriately in a champagne glass with a pine branch and then settles into a bottle of local Meritage. (There’s a chance that I enjoyed it so much, I may have forgotten exactly where it was from… just trust me, it’s lovely.) 2 East Main St. roundhousebeacon.com

Cafe Amarcord

For a romantic, intimate dinner with elevated fare for a price you could never get in the city, Cafe Amarcord is the place. A meticulous blend of New American and Northern Italian cuisine, get lost in dishes like Garganelli Duck Ragu, Lobster Gnocchi, and Domestic Loin of Lamb. Get a bottle of wine. Get Dessert. Get champagne with dessert. Fall in love. 276 Main St. cafeamarcord.com

Kitchen Sink

Located right on Main, this charming restaurant speaks to the progressive, localized, and eclectic dynamic of the town itself. With a rotating menu concentrating on fresh, local ingredients reimagined by Chef Brian Arnoff who was born in the area but has gained culinary experience and appreciation worldwide. Go for dinner, and prepare to have a few courses to sample the breadth of his imagination. And if you’re lucky enough to be there on a Monday, go for their fried chicken dinner. Just trust me. 157 Main St.

kitchensinkny.com

Homespun

Looking to grab a quick brunch before ingesting art for the afternoon? Head to Homespun for the best brunch in Beacon. This charming little spot offers everything from deep vanilla french toast to inventive soups and sandwiches, plus coffee, tea, beer and wine for whatever direction you want the day to take you. Get a cookie to go and tuck it in your pocket for the museum, for when you need to reset your senses between exhibits (it’s like that perfume-coffee-bean trick). 232 Main St. homespunfoods.com

What Not to Miss in Beacon

Dia Beacon

Dia pioneered the conversion of industrial spaces into exhibition spaces for art. The building itself is an old Nabisco box factory that now houses one of the largest exhibition spaces in the country for modern and contemporary art. Situated along the banks of the Hudson, the installations often invite the views and surrounding environment to become part of the experience. The museum is experiential, with whole-room exhibitions that immerse you in the mind and intention of the artist. Plan to spend 3 hours here, and preferably at sunset (trust me). 3 Beekman St. www.diaart.org

Storm King Art Center

Fit this into your trip, somehow. If you’re driving, it’s only an hour from Beacon. This open-air museum is the largest collection of contemporary sculptures in the world. It’s rolling hills house over 40 larger-than-life sculptures that are spaced out along the 500-acre landscape and somehow hidden, so discovering each one feels like Don Quixote trying to make sense of giants or windmills. Spend at least 2 hours here. Rent bikes. Bring a bota full of wine. Get lost. stormking.org

Newburgh Brewery

Do not miss the amazing breweries in the area, but in particular, this one, right across the river. Read the full story here (coming soon!). Newburgh is a town that has suffered from the influx of city tourists to Beacon. Because we’ve driven affordable housing out of the area and changed the industry to cater to long-weekend tourists, so many residents were pushed across the river to already exhausted Newburgh who doesn’t have the infrastructure to support them. This brewery represents the heartbeat of the city, the desire to keep trying. Located right on the river and run by locals, they are fighting to bring some industry and life back into the tired town. Go. Support them. Show that you aren’t just there to suck at the tourist teet that Beacon has been required to become. Oh, and the beer is fucking amazing. Check out their list of events here. 88 Colden St. www.newburghbrewing.com

Antique Shops along Main St.

Is this a little too typical? I don’t care. I really fucking love antiquing in small towns, anywhere, but especially the charming shops in Beacon. A very welcome mental transition from the grandiose modernity of Dia, don’t miss Galaxie 13 (436 Main St), Dickinson’s Antiques (440 main St), and 20th Century Fox Antiques (463 Main St) and Beacon Flea Market (in the warmer months, at 9 Henry St.). And for our own sake, don’t try to bargain.

Go to Beacon, but not because everyone else is going. Not because you need to decompress. And not just because of the museum. Go to embrace a community of locals and expats who have created and enhanced this charming, historic town. Go to forget the immediacy of city life. Understand the pace and the intention of life beyond urbanism. Go to embrace, and not overwhelm, the stunning culture here.