and for that, i’ve always wanted to pass along a guide to this enchanting city so that friends can see it through my eyes and my appreciation- so that they might procure more from it than the conspicious coastline, the oft-photographed architecture, the impenetrable soccer empire. that they will see the city as it is and how it will speak to them, with the knowledge that upon leaving, barcelona is something that will never leave them.

this guide began as something i wrote just after studying abroad for my best friend to use on a 5 day visit there. i had been back in the states for nearly 3 months and was having a terrible time assimilating back into the big-state school mentality in southwest virginia- but was suppressing everything i missed about barcelona and my european life in one big drawer in my bedroom that i never once opened. when i finally did, i brought the drawer out into the front yard of our white house and sat for hours, tears in my eyes, writing to her the most painful, sincere, and thorough travel guide i could muster. the original, written in complete stream of consciousness, can be very palpably digested here

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today will be a day of gastronomical and mystical exploration as you consume art, architecture, tapas and wine in the oldest part of the city. bring your appetite for adventure and thirst for wine, your capacity to take in vistas beyond your previous realm of understanding, and some comfortable (yet stylish?) shoes. before you get started, reserve your tickets to the museu picasso– if you don’t do this ahead of time, you won’t get in. and you want to get in.

start your day wandering through the gothic quarter, the ancient mystical neighborhood in barcelona’s center. wander down carrer de la princesa, a street full of shops and restaurants that runs right through the center. stop at can cisa for a glass of rioja and to fill up your wine bota, directly from the barrel. let yourself get lost in the catedral de barcelona, a cathedral marked by its painful history, reverence to animals, and distinctive medieval archways and rooftop. make your way through the narrow cobblestone streets, toward the museu de picasso. before or after, stop into el xampanyet, one of the oldest and most typical catalan tapas bars in the city. try the stuffed mushrooms, and pick up the most important souvenir of your trip- an official JB siquenza wine bota. (this is NOT an option- it’s bee my most loyal travel partner and greatest souvenir to date.)

wander through the streets and into the placa de santa maria where you’ll find a beautiful basilica of the plaza’s patron saint, which is said to have been built as the “people’s church” of barcelona and is truly an icon of the gothic period in catalunya. also in this plaza are two of my favorite tapas bars, always nestled perfectly in the shadows of the majestic basilica. for inventive tapas and indulgent sweets (which also boasts the “best chocolate cake in barcelona” as they say) try bubo. for a more traditional experience, its neighbor al vinya del senyor, offers wines, cavas, and simple tapas (i recommend the smoked salmon, trust me.) if you’re looking to commit to a traditional spanish lunch, one of the most iconic restaurants in the city, head to el 4 gats, former meeting place for artists in the modernist period, with decor inspired by le chat noir in paris. live music daily and real catalan “food of the soul”, plan on having a real 2+ hour spanish lunch here. do not give in to the temptation to siesta post-lunch, way too much to see in this city! after lunch, stop by and marvel at the wondrous palau de music, an art nouveau and architectural masterpiece. wander from there into las ramblas, working your way east toward the sea, navigating through the web of streets dedicated to vendors, shopping, and pick pockets! no kidding, be incredibly vigilant walking through here. stop in any shop that strikes your curiosity, get lost down narrow paths of street peddlers, book stores, small art galleries, and charming boutiques. for food, if you’re still hungry, the attic is one of the only acceptable tourist restaurants in the area, and has a great rooftop, free glass of cava for all weary travelers, and is a peaceful alternative to the packed sidewalk cafes below. save plenty of time to get completely lost wandering around la boqueria, barcelona’s most famous market. visit el quim de la boqueria tapas bar in the back (if you’re lucky enough to find a spot) have some wine while you wander around.

as evening sets in, wind back through the born district, and try to time it so you catch a sunset through the iconic archway on carrer del bisbe. if you feel like having a late dinner, reserve a sofa at la fianna in the gothic quarter and dine like royalty while lounging in a bed beaneath gas-lit chandeliers (hint: don’t wear embarrassing socks). then pop over to small bar, my favorite little nook in the neighborhood. get the lemon and coffee shots to give you a jolt of energy before heading to the iconic harlem jazz club for live music and dancing, any night of the week. wander into la ovella negra if you’re feeling homesick- this unassuming door leads into a massive expat bar full of picnic tables, drunken cultural exchanges, and shitty sangria by the pitcher- and don’t think for a minute that means i hate it.

FOOTNOTES– these are just for your feet!

Can Cisa- Carrer de la Princesa, 14

Museu Picasso- Carrer Montcada, 15-23

Catedral de Barcelona- Pla Seu, 3

El Xampanyet- Carrer de Montcada, 22

Bubo- Carrer de les Caputxes, 6

Al Vinya del Senor- Plaza Sta Maria, 5

El 4 Gats- Carrer de Montsió, 3

Palau de Musica- Carrer de Palau de la Música, 4-6

The Attic- Les Rambles, 120

La Boqueria- Les Rambles, 91

La Fianna- Carrer dels Banys Vells, 15

Small bar- Carrer d’Ataülf, 9

Harlem Jazz Club- Carrer de Comtessa de Sobradiel, 8

La Ovella Negra- Calle de les Sitges, 5

start your day at barcelona’s own Arc de Triomf, which just like the city is a bit more colorful, more contemporary, and rough around the edges than its parisian friend’s. slip over to Happy Bike Rentals to rent bikes for the day. from there bike straight into the Parc de la Ciutadella, which boasts barcelona’s parliament, a beautiful fountain (that yours truly may or may not have a significant piece of), and plenty of space to lounge and relax. there’s also a Zoo with pretty good hot dogs. fyi, the albino gorilla died back in 2004, but you wouldn’t know that based on his countenance being all over the city and the zoo. i spent a little too long searching for him at the zoo, even feeling very confident that i’d spotted him sleeping in his cage (which by the way, is still there. exactly as he left it. dishes in the sink, clothes set out on the bed for the next day and everything). don’t be tricked by this. snowflake resides only in the hearts of the catalunyans. whether you zoo or not, hope on your chariots and head toward the the coast. before you set off, stop in and get some bocadillos to bring with you- i love — for sandwiches (and somehow their donuts are insanely good) or my favorite cafe, El Cafe de la Pompeu, right across from my former universitat, El Pompeu Fabra. when you reach the sea you’ll be at the most touristy area of coastline, the beach of barceloneta, where you find all of the semi-subterranean restaurants that turn into clubs at night and open up right onto the sand. if you must visit one, i recommend Shoko– especially on tuesdays. you’ll also see the iconic two towers with frank gehry’s stunning aluminum fish sculpture. underneath his sculpture is a series of hidden paths and waterfalls. bike through here even though it feels dangerous to weave through all the tourists. from here, follow the boardwalk up the other side and simply continue north, biking up the coast and take in stunning views of the mediterranean. wander into Parc Diagonal Mar and play with all of the music-related jungle gyms. sit on one of the many industrial piers and gaze out over the sea, legs dangling. eat your sandwich.

head straight back down the coast and onward to the Passeig del Colom, passing through in time to catch an iconic sunset over the port, in the silhouette of the sacred Cristobal Colon statue. feeling fancy? bike all the way down the port and head up to the rooftop bar of the W Hotel, right along the mediterranean coast, to take in a caipirinha and some of the best views of the city. wander up avenida del paral.lel to Quimet y Quimet for one of the most authentic and quirkiest catalan tapas experiences in the city. it’s crowded, it’s loud, the wine comes in little juice glasses and the food with little to no explanation. enjoy it. once you have a taste, wander through El Raval neighborhood, Barcelona’s grungy art community. make your way through Mercat Sant Antoni, one of the oldest and most iconic markets in the city. following the Ronda de Sant Antoni up to Barcelona’s Gran Via takes you past the University of Barcelona, the Contemporary Art Museum, and lots of unique shops along the way to keep you distracted. if you’re hungry for dinner, stop into L’Oliva for contemporary Catalan fare and one of my favorite dinner spots in the city. after dinner, wander into Espit Chupitos, one of Barcelona’s many shots bars. choose from hundreds of shots, each a different adventure of sorts- stay away from the monica lewinsky (just take my word for it). from here, wander northeast along Gran Via and east into the gothic quarter to do some bar hopping.

Shoko- Passeig Marítim, 36

W Hotel Barcelona- Plaça de la Rosa dels Vents, 1

Quimet y Quimet- Carrer del Poeta Cabanyes, 25

Mercat Sant Antoni- Carrer del Comte d’Urgell

L’Oliva- Gran Via de Les Corts Catalanes, 596

Espit Chupitos- Carrer del Consell de Cent, 268

start your day off by making a reservation- Parc Güell is free but entry into any of the iconic areas with the mosaic benches will require money and a reservation.

NOW, let’s set off into the beautiful northern area of the city today. starting with a cafe and croissant (find a place?) in the lovely neighborhood of Gracia, then head north toward Parc Güell. it’s a hike, but it will make the end worth your while. once you’re there, plan to lose yourself for at least two hours wandering through the tunnels and chambers of the creative genius of Gaudi. beyond the iconic mosaic lizard and meandering benches, there are also gnarly rock formations and caves made especially for echoey acoustics where you’re destined to find a didgeridooed busker or two. admire the views, pretend to run into javier bardem, pet the exceptionally well-groomed stray cats that are said to be decedents of Gaudi’s beard.

from there, head to either (or somehow, both) the Parc del Laberint d’Horta if you’re looking for a more natural and relaxing experience, with a challenging, huge cypress maze to wander through. this park is absolutely pristine and offers stunning, unique views of the city and plenty of hidden, romantic spots for a to feast over jamon and vino with a lover. or, head northwest up to the highest point in the city (don’t worry, there’s a funicular)- the antique theme park at Tibidabo and Temple del Sagrat Cor. it’s one of my favorite spots in the city, and equal parts sacred and adventurous. ride the ferris wheel. climb to the top of the winding staircase to view the city beneath the open arms of jesus. eat cotton candy. play human-size chess. now finish your churros y chocolate and get in line for the funicular, we have places to see! at the base of the funicular (how many more times can i say that word?) you’ll find my favorite spot in the city to have a glass of wine- i hope you catch it at sunset. Mirablau, which was built into the side of a mountain and consists primarily of one huge glass window, it’s the perfect place to relax after a day of hiking. if you want to stay here, the discoteca is just a treacherous staircase down the mountain, completely open-air, and features fantastic djs. BUT, i’d encourage you to continue on… we have some eating and drinking to do. head south back into the Gracia neighborhood to grab a quick bite at Flash Flash Tortilleria, a simple tapas bar offering way too many varieties of Spain’s sacred tortilla (need an explanation? ah, here comes one now…) or head to Paco Meralgo for more formal tapas and excellent seafood. grab a drink at the stunning Hotel Casa Fuster and find yourself transported into that scene from vicky christina barcelona. wander down Carrer Verdi for tapas, drinks, dancing, and culture. if you’re looking to burn the midnight oil, Sutton is one of the most famous discotecas in the city. if you have any issues getting in, act like you know Richard, the very distinguished looking gentleman at the door. he’d rather let you in than admit he doesn’t remember you- trust me.

FOOTNOTES??! more like- addresses, am i right?

Parc Guell- Carrer d’Olot, s/n, 08024

Sutton- Calle Tuset, 13

ah, the modernist and historical soul of the city- let’s take it all in today. holding hands.

start your day making some reservations, again- you’ll be visiting two of the Gaudi houses  (Casa Mila and Casa Battlo) and Sagrada Familia today, it might be a good idea to choose which ones you want to pay to enter and spend some time in. of the two houses, i recommend Casa Mila (aka La Pedrera).  Sagrada Familia is amazing inside and out, and worth the money if you want to enter but you won’t be let down observing from the exterior.

 

FOOTNOTES– a debriefing, for your feet:

Hospital de Sant Pau- Carrer de Sant Quintí, 89

Estrella Damm original factory- Carrer del Rosselló, 515

Casa Battlo- Passeig de Gràcia, 43

Casa Mila- Provença, 261-265

Palau Nacional- Parc de Montjuïc, s/n  (by the way, s/n means “sin numero” or without number. in other words, just arrive and you’re there. be the number. be the number.)

 Font Montjuic- Plaça de Carles Buïgas, 1

HEY DON’T WORRY– we’re not finished yet.

if you aren’t exhausted yet, explore catalunya beyond it’s celebrated capital.

go forth, hungry travelers.

see you out there.

<3L.

Turkey is a country that constantly juxtaposes the reverent mysticism and progressive modernity. The call to prayer interrupts a wave of commuters during rush hour, women in hijabs walk between tourists holding selfie sticks. The solemn and unwavering countenance of Ataturk presides over a nation still plagued by hypocrisy, chaos, and confusion. because of its turbulent history, volatile location, and relentless drive to hold on to tradition while remaining competitive in a perpetually modernized world, Turkey has been plagued by conflict for much of its history. conflict that has so unfortunately escalated recently. Let that not keep us from going, because conflict and terrorism wins when we close the curtains and hide in our seemingly safeguarded homes. The best defense we have is to break down barriers, to open our minds, to eliminate stereotypes, keep moving.

so when you decide to go to Turkey, spend some time in Anatolia in the city of Cappadocia. be charmed by the people, captivated by the landscape, and completely lost in a land that is so magical it doesn’t seem real. take the balloon photo and then do everything else there is to do there.

and start here my friends: your 3-day guide to Cappadocia.

There’s more to this land than instagram-worthy hot air balloons. Cappadocia is an otherworldly region in central turkey consisting of multiple small villages situated in a fairy tale-like setting. This, “the land of beautiful horses” got its tranquil, surreal landscape thanks to two volcanoes erupting and covering the rocky terrain with hot magma 60 million years ago. 60 million. Now the volcanoes have hushed and what is left is an arid snowscape of flowing stone, hidden caves, and jarring mountains dotted with charming villages, breathtaking views, and the relentlessly hospitable Anatolian people.

Almost all options here for accommodations are “cave hotels” which are exactly what they sound like- minus the stalactites and bats. While I can only share my experience at one of these enchanting chateaus, I feel that you really need to look no further. Goreme Mansion is located at the top of the hill in central Goreme. This charming 7-room hotel consists of three floors of open terraces and a rooftop with more than a view.

 

the hotel is located close to the village’s minaret (as, consequently, everything else in town) gives you a very Arabian wake up call at 542am but rather than abruptly waking you, it paints your dreams in a mystical light. Sleep with the windows open, because I almost guarantee you’ll miss this experience once you’re gone. The hotel provides a complimentary Turkish Breakfast from 730 to 9 every morning, and is all homemade by the “staff” here… which, by the way, isn’t a staff at all. Ali, the owner, grew up in this house and has been continuously updating and adding to the mansion to give guests the perfect taste of his hometown. His face is worn with then inimitable marks of years of laughter, kindness, and humility. Busra, who introduces herself immediately not by her position at the mansion, but insisting- “I am your sister. What’s mine is yours,” is the most hospitable person I’ve ever run into. She takes the time to explain and plan your stay for you, adding in anecdotes and histories of the land and people, making calls on the phone and to friends in the street to arrange activities, rides, and exclusive discounts. She is truly  the magic of this place and defined the Anatolian experience here for me- kindness, humility, generosity, towards all who pass; an infectious generosity that you carry with you long after leaving.

The rooms are spacious, bathrooms are nearly spa-like, and overall feeling of the place is just as they intended- like home. (If home is in,a cave in a magical fairy tale and you are the queen and dine on coffees and olives all day. of course.) oh yeah, and this will put you back only $26 a night.

Sure, this is a bit of a novelty- but something yiu must try. Handmade pottery is abundant here due to the readily available clay from the red river, able hands, and arid climate. Meat and spices are placed in ceramics pots and cooked with fire underground, brought to your table, and then broken with a samurai-esque sword to release the most tender and flavorful kebab adventure you’ll experience in turkey. Served with fresh bread, tomato, onion, yogurt,cucumber, and all of it’s other friends, it’s a delicacy not to be missed.

I recommend Sedef, which is located at Bilal Eroglu Cad., in Goreme.

Turkish breakfast is like a choose-your-own-adventure novel. A mixture of breads, cheeses, meats, yogurt, tomato, cucumber, olives, honey, jam, and pretty much anything else they can think of arrives on an array of plates and allows you to combine flavors on your fork to get your day started with a fresh variety of local fare. Don’t be shy either- you’ll need some energy.

I love the rich cultural tradition of having tea or coffee in middle Eastern countries. Coffee in New York is more about maintenance than pleasure- give me my caffeine, give it to me to go, and let me keep moving toward my destination. Fast. Coffee in Europe is a social experience. Ask for it “to go” and you’re almost guaranteed to get a scowl in return. You are expected to take at least 15 minutes… So Sit. Sip. Enjoy. Take in the sites and sounds and smells of your surroundings, oh, and in case you aren’t tempted to stay, they give you a little treat to go with it! In Spain it’s savory, in France it’s sweet (case in point, this whole amazing concept of the cafe gourmand- amazing.) in Germany it’s kielbasa.

In the Middle East, coffee is an invitation. It’s a sharing of cultures. It’s a way of honoring and respecting each other, no matter where you are or where you’re coming from. Don’t say no if a shop owner offers you tea. Don’t politely decline when the man to the bazaar moves the tapestry aside and offers you to sit on the floor with him and hands you a mug. This is an opportunity. Be respectful, drink up, stay caffeinated. You can sleep on the plane.

This is a given. There are about 30 different companies in town, all offering sunrise tours complete with breakfast, champagne toast, and a 2-hour drift, plus transportation to and from your place of stay. Be aware– if the wind is above 6km/hr, they will not risk going up. So plan to ride the first morning you arrive, so that if flights are cancelled, you will have another morning or two to try.

On the mornings not ballooning, wake before sunrise and hike Aydin Kiragi Sk. just behind Goreme Mansion to watch all the balloons (it’s usually about 200!) slowly fill with air and rise with the sun to color the landscape with bright, vibrant patterns among the arid pastel backdrop. This is not a recommendation. This is a command. This is also a perfect place to listen to the last call to prayer as the sun sets and nights falls upon Goreme.

I know- in a place this magical, somehow they’ve come up with the most uninventive nomenclature for these all-day adventures. Perhaps I’ll make some recommendations before I leave. Regardless, do one of these or both. They are well-worth the ~$40 price tag, which includes transportation, lunch, and a full 8 hours of site-seeing.

I chose the green tour,which takes you first to a monastery built way up into the side of a mountain. It was discovered when the outer layer of rock fell away to uncover a community of caverns made into kitchens, bedrooms, churches, and schools for the … People to seek refuge from persecution. Get lost, wander around, imagine eating around a 50-person stone table or worshiping in one of 5 remarkably complex fresco-adorned domed chapel caves. I mean really. How in the hell did they accomplish this when I have trouble determining the best way to eat a doner kebab without spilling its contents.

Two stops along panoramic cliff sides give you a peek at the rocky formations George Lucas used as a backdrop in Star Wars, an ancient cemetery laden with aged gravestones and distinct melancholic feel, and a chance to imagine what life was like living in stone houses in quaint communities centuries ago.

Next stop- a three course Turkish lunch outdoors with… a bunch of other tour groups. But, it’s good! And fun. Eat up. Have some local wine, which is surprisingly full-bodied considering the climate. From lunch, a 4km hike along the red river in the lush Ilhara Valley offers towering cliff sides, hidden caves, and a few charming riverside-hideouts to rest and wash your feet.

A 40 minute ride from there takes you to Derinkuyu to the underground city, an entire village built 75km below the ground also as a hiding place for Christians being persecuted during the Byzantine period. Not for those with claustrophobic tendencies, the narrow passageways, steep stairs, and hidden rooms offer a glimpse at a society determined to survive and maintain rich cultural and religious ties.

Finally, a stop at an onyx-carving shop offers a glimpse at an age-old craft and an opportunity to buy hand crafted jewelry and souveneirs rib where they are made. They’ll give you a good price if you smile. And you should be smiling anyway- you’re in cappadocia.

For the adventurers soul. While ballooning is daring yet passive, the experience of barreling through the rocky landscape of cappadocia on an ATV is not for the weak at heart. Don’t let this intimidate you though- for all of momentary hesitance and persistent shrieking, this two-hour tour ended up being one of my favorite parts of my visit. And for about $20/person, limitless views, unreachable landscapes and hidden villages can all be yours.  I recommend …. And try to book a private tour for two to three people, rather than a big group.

Absolutely make time to do this. For about $20 you get a two-hour tour through breathtaking landscapes, up impossible hills and through a few small villages.

Pottery Making

This is a stop on the red tour, but if you don’t have another full day to spend touring around, there’s a secret spot in town that offers private lessons from a master craftsman. Stop in at the pottery shop just at the northeastern corner of town for a very Ghost-like experience, minus Patrick Swayze. And the sex. But you get a charming little clay pot!