Ah Florida, the so-called redneck riviera. That oddly southern slice of the states that has somehow avoided both the charm and refinement that can often be associated with the region. Florida is a stomping ground for spring break revelers, a destination for Nascar enthusiasts, a paradise for pruney post-professional retirees flocking to leisure-centric housing developments. 
But could it be that the entire state has succumbed to these stereotypes?

Of course not.

Forget what you thought about Florida and remember what you’ve always known about traveling – that no place can be determined by what those thought before of it, and as such must be explored, often, and by many feet.

And explore we did, upon two feet (each) and for a brief two-day stint in the diverse and comparatively bohemian little town of St. Petersburg, Florida. 
Let me preface this by saying, two days isn’t quite enough. But on a visit clearly dedicated to seeing family in Clearwater, a quick two-day escape is what we had so we made the most of it. 

Here’s how we did it and how we recommend doing it. 

Where To Stay in St. Petersburg | The Birchwood

Hotels can often feel sterile and inevitably devoid of the culture and life of the place they are set within. We were searching for lodging that felt emblematic to the historic glamour that defines St. Pete, far from any chain hotels or kitschy resorts. The Birchwood, a tastefully funky, hacienda-style oasis right in the heart of the St. Pete art district was exactly what we were looking for.

This stunning boutique hotel provided an approachable yet wholly luxurious experience that was both charming and cozy. We were greeted at the front desk who happily gave us a few tips on the area before handing us the key to our little piece of paradise on the 3rd floor. He popped up again our door within minutes just after we called asking where to find the ice machine. “I’ll be right up,” he appeared then with a bucket of ice and a smile. Because what good is a machine with a button when you can have instead personalized service? These little extras added to not only the level of service but the sense of community and conversation that most modern hotels lack.

The room was a meticulous mix of modernity and historic charm; a glamourous clawfooted bathtub sat within a mostly marble bathroom, contemporary light fixtures illuminated an antique-inspired and dramatically comfortable four post bed. The space felt like the perfect escape while not feeling too secluded from the scene in St. Pete, and our entire experience at the Birchwood, from sunset at the Canopy, dinner at Birch and Vine, and the charming way the lady at the front desk admitted that she couldn’t drive a stick when we asked to get our car from “valet” the next morning made us feel equally like revered guests but also like a part of the family at the Birchwood. 

Visit The Birchwood at 340 Beach Drive NE. Book a room first here, and prepare to never want to leave.

On Your Way to St. Pete

Acai Bowls at Karma Juice Bar

What is it about vacation that tends to steer you recklessly away from anything resembling health food? Driving in from Clearwater, we took this 45 stint as an opportunity to make some definitively good decisions about road trip food amid the (very much voluntary) fried fish and “gourmet” burger options we’d been exploring most of our trip. A brief argument fueled by indirect Google maps instructions and hunger led us to this little health Mecca, right along interstate 19 on your way to St. Pete. This organic juice spot feels good just stepping inside. We chose the Brainiac and the Pitaya bowls plus a pack of kale energy cubes to stave away sinful snacking which, ok, mostly worked. Find them at 209 1st St. NE.

St. Pete Beach and the Don Cesar hotel

Established as a destination for snowbirds and locals alike, St. Pete beach seems to be home to the finest sand beaches and landmarked because of the 1928 Moorish masterpiece, the Don Cesar hotel. This beach still drips and tempts you with prohibition-era glamour and is worth seeing, staying, sunning and sanding for a few hours, even on a quick trip. It gave us an ideal and very real setting to juxtapose our dive into what became a very surreal afternoon of art gazing. 

The Dali Museum

As with most tourist destinations in Florida, this museum is inevitably inhabited by those seekers of a rather refined age. Beat them at their own game by arriving late-ish (around 1pm), going through the museum in the opposite direction (while still using the audio guide, which I highly recommend), and buying tickets online here to bypass the confused queue. 

There is something very sacred about a museum that only showcases one artist’s work, and this surreal trip through the mystical, brazen, and often (evil) mind of Salvadore Dali will leave you with the very feeling of being in the presence of pure genius. In comparison to the Dali Museum in Spain, which was curated by the man himself and thus felt more like a psychotic roller coaster ride through the depths of his consciousness, this is pristine and well-curated to help you understand and appreciate one of the greatest artists of our time. 

In addition to the audio guide, also don’t skip the virtual reality experience. Yes, it seems silly. Yes, your palms will sweat a bit if you have any sort of fear of heights. No there is no better opportunity to dive right into the mind and mayhem that is this artist. It’s free and the line rarely takes more than 15 minutes.

Before departing the museum, get a cava at the Cafe Gala and stroll through the sparse but stunning sculpture garden. Become part of the art my hanging your wristband upon the tree of life.  The Dali museum is located at 1 Dali Blvd. Get tickets before you go right here.

Afternoon Drinks at MacDinton’s Irish Pub

Irish pubs in New York are horribly cheesy, overpriced and tasteless. But I’ve found that Irish pubs nearly anywhere else are usually your best bet to get a localized bar experience. We found ourselves in MacDinton’s on 1st Ave for this very reason. It was 4pm and most other bars were closed or sad, and this one was full of futbol fans drinking and verbally reacting to two Champions League games. After two pints each of local Cigar City brews and a celebratory shot of Jameson (admittedly, I love to see Real Madrid lose a bit too much), plus some much appreciated advice about the area from a bartender and the owner, we walked the two short blocks back to our hotel, just in time to catch the sunset. 242 1st Ave.

Sunset Drinks at Canopy atop the Birchwood Inn

The best way to experience and appreciate all of St. Pete is to get above it. Perched elegantly atop the Birchwood is the Canopy, a stunning rooftop lounge offering panoramic views of this southern paradise and the best way to experience the area’s iconic sunsets. The drink prices juxtapose the glamorous setting, with happy hour (which conveniently coincides with sunset hour) setting us back only $24 after 2 drinks each.

We settled into the seductive seating, as the bright orange hues from the sun gave way to the flames from the open fire pit upon our rather sun-scorched skin. This was the moment we were somehow waiting for, that felt world’s apart from our lives in New York. 

Dinner below at Birch and Vine

Staying in a hotel with one of the top-rated restaurants in the state gives you no need to stray far for dinner. We descended four floors into Birch and Vine, the seductive and intimate dining space within the Birchwood. We were treated like royalty despite our relatively tipsy states, and were received New York caliber service within this historically progressive city. To drink, we chose the Canopy Jewel, a refreshing floral and (mostly!) local cocktail, and the Red Light Negroni, their slightly bolder take on the classic.

We chose the Green Goddess salad to start things off with good intentions, before indulging in the Filet Oscar, elegantly accompanied by local crab and asparagus, and the Sweet Potato Gnocchi with pork belly. The pairing made for a decadent and exotic experience that felt oh-so-far from any pretenses about this state. This was fine dining, and it suited our sunburnt skin and big city hearts just fine. 

Live Music at Ruby’s Elixir

We ended up visiting Florida inconveniently during college spring break, which meant coastline colored with misplaced farmers tans and bars packed with inebriated 20-somethings pulling out dance moves that I’m sure were never in my repertoire no matter how much Red Bull and Vodka I’d consumed a decade ago. As they and we all flocked to the live music and energy at Ruby’s, this crowd only meant for some unmatched people watching and pleasantly unscrutinized dance moves of our own.  Having our view of the band interrupted by 5 rows of misguided and horny and sun-and-beer-soaked college kids was equally painful and nostalgic, and colored the disenchanted renditions of Mr. Jones and Me and who they didn’t know was Tom Petty in a way that felt damn good.  15 3rd St. N.

Brunch at Cassis

I always find myself seeking something slightly Parisien when I travel anywhere outside of Paris. And Cassis, with it’s brightly lit dining space, aptly antique furnishings, and spacious terrace with French-style wicker seating welcomed our slightly-hungover bodies with open arms. We settled into a sunny brunch and deliberated over a menu of mostly local flavors, peppered with Parisien influence.

I chose the Shrimp and Sausage Ragu (with grits!) and the Brioche French Toast, a pairing that was both pleasantly sweet and painfully savory and were only highlighted with a round of sparkling mimosas.

Brunch is served daily from 8am to 3pm, dinner from 4-10pm (or 11pm on weekends) plus bar and lounge stay open a bit later. 170 Beach Dr. 

Visit the Sunken Gardens, on your way out

Part museum, part zoo, part promenade, the Sunken Gardens is a peaceful and romantic way to experience the (magic) of St. Pete on your way out of town. This 100-year old garden is home to some of the most undisturbed and stunning flowers and plantlife in the country. They’ve recently welcomed a (crop? smattering? gaggle? someone help me here…) group of flamingos that will thankfully take no notice of you. Admission is $10 and parking is free. Due to the now disruptive way we now experience places and the noticeably undisrupted nature of the gardens, take heed of their photography policy and appreciate this natural, unfiltered and uninhibited environment as it’s intended.