I found myself wandering around Gowanus on a rainy day in February with a friend, attempting to quell our curiosity about what exactly it means to designate something a superfund site, and to ignore the slight stench that permeated the misty air that might tempt our appetites into submission. We were hungry, and curious about the area, and stumbled upon a tiny little oasis somewhere on 3rd avenue that caught our attention. 

We settled into a bright booth in the window, admittedly with our cameras and notebooks at the ready. We had intended to explore the neighborhood with no direction- “a day with no plans”, we’d said, desiring instead to let the neighborhood and its residents speak to us. 

And what Gowans unknowingly said to us was, “You’re about to have a Michelin-star lunch.”

And not knowing or intending this made this experience all the more riveting. We giggled with the server about the cocktail list, which was boldly all mezcal-based, before deciding to each indulge in one… because when you intend to have no plans, a 1pm cocktail feels like it’s right on time. 

We chose a few dishes to share – the tuna tostada, the remolacha tostada, the turkey tinga tacos. And as our chosen dishes began arriving and our little booth filled with the scents and flavors of Oaxaca, we knew that this unintentional lunch was about to have a permanent spot on our must-eat list.

Here’s what you can’t miss at Claro, other than the fact that it’s so warm, approachable, and inviting, you’ll have no idea it has a Michelin star until, perhaps, you’re at home the next day doing a bit of research for a piece you’re going to put on your blog.

Tostada de Remolacha

In my quest to lean towards a plant-based diet, I’ve found myself intentionally ordering dishes that I would often pass up. How good can a beet really be? Chef TJ Steele won’t hesitate in answering that question. A beet can be something sacred when fire-roasted to perfection and sitting atop a handmade tostada, accompanied by some unlikely yet welcome new bedfellows- guacamole, queso fresco, cilantro, and some sort of creamy white binding agent who seemed to be present to keep the band together. This is a great way to start your meal.

Tostada de Tuna

Now before you say, ‘another tostada??’ just stop, and don’t. Tostadas are the Mexican answer to canapes, and thus intended to eat and be shared freely and repeatedly. Plus, Chef Steele handmakes all of his tortillas, so even if they weren’t wearing fancy hats, I’d have multiple. This one looked like a work of art, but one that we had no qualms destroying immediately. What was listed on the menu as accompanying our perfectly rare tuna was “pasilla oaxaqueña, cara cara, chicharrón” none of which sounds like, or tasted like, it was fished out of a superfund site. This must be on your table.

Turkey Tinga Tacos

Sure, a tinga is a tinga, right? That’s like saying a Beatles album is a Beatles album, or a walk in the park is just a walk in the park. It isn’t. You know this. And once you take one bite of this surprising turkey tinga, it’s going to be hard for you to go back to your familiar chicken tinga tacos. And that’s a little sad, but trust me, it’s how it has to be. These saucy little numbers need to be  on your table and then in your mouth.

My only regret is that we didn’t order either of the mole dishes, and I suppose that the charming, leaf-covered patio wasn’t open (again, February…) However, the approachable atmosphere and unbelievable flavors we experienced at Claro will have us coming back way before patio season. 

Claro is located at  284 3rd Avenue

Follow them here, then go there.