i have to admit, the thought of staying indoors at all while in barcelona feels like a travesty. i do not seek shelter while i’m in this gem of a city, the shining light of catalunya. i seek jamon and flamenco and narrow streets and picasso picasso picasso all in dangerously unbalanced proportions.

however, one must sleep apparently. and let me just say that i was hardly surprised that accommodations in barcelona reflect the city itself. inspiring interiors, artistic approaches, spaces that reflect each dynamic neighborhood, beds and bedrooms made for lovemaking.

so when in barcelona, do seek shelter and realize that it doesn’t have to feel like you’re conceding to sleep. choose accommodations that will fit your trip and feel just as inspiring and moving as exploring. and start here.

for the urban traveler who desires lodging that is away from the noise, the distraction, and tourists of barcelona’s beating heart, Hotel Primero Primera is a chic and luxurious refuge in the northern neighborhood of Sarria. convenient by train, bus, or taxi to all parts of the city, it’s tucked away among residential streets and schools, high-end stores and markets with a charming array of restaurants. I found myself wandering the streets and pretending that I had achieved some form of success in Barcelona, enough to buy a large home in the Costa Brava but wanting instead to still be part of the energy, the passion, the tangible art and life on every corner. and this would be how i ended up in Sarria, satisfied to still be on the pulse of the city but with enough space and solitude to breathe a bit. Hotel Primero Primera gives you this same feeling, of accomplishment and Catalan inclusion, of discernment and elevated tourist seclusion. the hotel fits right into the neighborhood, with very little distinction but an unassuming metal sign. the interior feels timeless yet hip, and flawlessly scented. yeah, I’m serious, smells great in there. I was coming from a shameless and relentless three day stint in Ibiza, after which I had a hard time remembering my name. to walk in to a room with a king-sized bed and fluffy pillows, a bathroom with a full bathtub and rain shower, a robe waiting for me to fill it and a mini fridge waiting for me to empty it, I felt equally indulgent and immensely appreciative and ready, immediately, to relax and seek forgiveness for all my sins.

Hotel Primero Primera is on the cusp of this new movement where hotels try to create a more immersive experience where you can sit and relax and help yourself to everything in the hotel as if it was your home. breakfast each morning felt like it never ended and was set in a loungey-cafe area where you were encouraged to sit and sip and eat and read and ease into your day. the hidden studies and spaces with “free snacks” tables let you create your own experience here without being bombarded by employees asking you if you needed anything. but trust me when i say if you do need anything, they’ll be there, almost before you express your desire. this hotel is a peaceful refuge with a modern flair, and just what i needed to recharge and transition from relentless raver in ibiza to urban explorer in barcelona. rooms are around $170 a night. check out the space here and book your stay. Carrer del Dr. Carulla, 25, 08017

 Hotel Ca la María

we are all seeking that “like a local” experience when traveling. and as much as Airbnb makes us feel more like a resident than a tourist, their is a distinct lack of personal charm that real Bed and Breakfasts strive for. the Hotel Ca La Maria takes the air out of Airbnb to return to the origins of a bed and breakfast, a result that immediately took my breath away.

walking in to the Ca La Maria, I immediately felt at home, however, if that was in fact, my home, then I was also the coolest, most intelligent human on the planet. cultured. sexy. well-read. avid art collector. wine enthusiast. ok, to say I fell into the dream of myself there is an understatement.

located on the second floor of a traditional residential building in the charming l’eixample district, the decor juxtaposes history and modernity just as flawlessly the city of Barcelona itself does. featuring the artwork of Catalan artists, each room and space feels dynamic and inviting. Bright balconies flood each room with natural light. The shared living room has a floor to ceiling bookshelf made for sharing and conversations. A hidden projector screen alludes to movie nights and the charming and bountiful breakfast spread is well beyond continental. this b&b was made for the traveler who is seeking a personal experience beyond the generic luxury hotel and more engaging than an airbnb. It was made for the curious traveler who wants to be enveloped into culture and experience, entranced by distinct local charm and seeking both privacy and a shared social scene at the same time. expect nightly sunsets and morning coffees on the terrace and to get lost talking to the owner Maria Inglada about the ever-evolving city and neighborhood and tales of her travels and travelers alike. book early, this boutique hotel fills quickly and often. check it out here and reserve your spot. Carrer de Còrsega 284, 08008.

I’m surprised at the average prices for hostels in Barcelona. inevitably, most hostel travelers are looking for three things – price, location, and atmosphere. they want a social lodging experience but also something affordable. i found myself searching for hostels and constantly trading one thing for the other – raising my price minimum in exchange for a better location, sacrificing aesthetic all together for price, choosing a less-convenient location for hip decor. i settled on and then settled in to the best two. check them out below and save yourself time sorting through the hundreds of options on hostelworld.

Itaca Hostel Barcelona

 

Free Hostel Barcelona

and for that, i’ve always wanted to pass along a guide to this enchanting city so that friends can see it through my eyes and my appreciation- so that they might procure more from it than the conspicious coastline, the oft-photographed architecture, the impenetrable soccer empire. that they will see the city as it is and how it will speak to them, with the knowledge that upon leaving, barcelona is something that will never leave them.

this guide began as something i wrote just after studying abroad for my best friend to use on a 5 day visit there. i had been back in the states for nearly 3 months and was having a terrible time assimilating back into the big-state school mentality in southwest virginia- but was suppressing everything i missed about barcelona and my european life in one big drawer in my bedroom that i never once opened. when i finally did, i brought the drawer out into the front yard of our white house and sat for hours, tears in my eyes, writing to her the most painful, sincere, and thorough travel guide i could muster. the original, written in complete stream of consciousness, can be very palpably digested here

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today will be a day of gastronomical and mystical exploration as you consume art, architecture, tapas and wine in the oldest part of the city. bring your appetite for adventure and thirst for wine, your capacity to take in vistas beyond your previous realm of understanding, and some comfortable (yet stylish?) shoes. before you get started, reserve your tickets to the museu picasso– if you don’t do this ahead of time, you won’t get in. and you want to get in.

start your day wandering through the gothic quarter, the ancient mystical neighborhood in barcelona’s center. wander down carrer de la princesa, a street full of shops and restaurants that runs right through the center. stop at can cisa for a glass of rioja and to fill up your wine bota, directly from the barrel. let yourself get lost in the catedral de barcelona, a cathedral marked by its painful history, reverence to animals, and distinctive medieval archways and rooftop. make your way through the narrow cobblestone streets, toward the museu de picasso. before or after, stop into el xampanyet, one of the oldest and most typical catalan tapas bars in the city. try the stuffed mushrooms, and pick up the most important souvenir of your trip- an official JB siquenza wine bota. (this is NOT an option- it’s bee my most loyal travel partner and greatest souvenir to date.)

wander through the streets and into the placa de santa maria where you’ll find a beautiful basilica of the plaza’s patron saint, which is said to have been built as the “people’s church” of barcelona and is truly an icon of the gothic period in catalunya. also in this plaza are two of my favorite tapas bars, always nestled perfectly in the shadows of the majestic basilica. for inventive tapas and indulgent sweets (which also boasts the “best chocolate cake in barcelona” as they say) try bubo. for a more traditional experience, its neighbor al vinya del senyor, offers wines, cavas, and simple tapas (i recommend the smoked salmon, trust me.) if you’re looking to commit to a traditional spanish lunch, one of the most iconic restaurants in the city, head to el 4 gats, former meeting place for artists in the modernist period, with decor inspired by le chat noir in paris. live music daily and real catalan “food of the soul”, plan on having a real 2+ hour spanish lunch here. do not give in to the temptation to siesta post-lunch, way too much to see in this city! after lunch, stop by and marvel at the wondrous palau de music, an art nouveau and architectural masterpiece. wander from there into las ramblas, working your way east toward the sea, navigating through the web of streets dedicated to vendors, shopping, and pick pockets! no kidding, be incredibly vigilant walking through here. stop in any shop that strikes your curiosity, get lost down narrow paths of street peddlers, book stores, small art galleries, and charming boutiques. for food, if you’re still hungry, the attic is one of the only acceptable tourist restaurants in the area, and has a great rooftop, free glass of cava for all weary travelers, and is a peaceful alternative to the packed sidewalk cafes below. save plenty of time to get completely lost wandering around la boqueria, barcelona’s most famous market. visit el quim de la boqueria tapas bar in the back (if you’re lucky enough to find a spot) have some wine while you wander around.

as evening sets in, wind back through the born district, and try to time it so you catch a sunset through the iconic archway on carrer del bisbe. if you feel like having a late dinner, reserve a sofa at la fianna in the gothic quarter and dine like royalty while lounging in a bed beaneath gas-lit chandeliers (hint: don’t wear embarrassing socks). then pop over to small bar, my favorite little nook in the neighborhood. get the lemon and coffee shots to give you a jolt of energy before heading to the iconic harlem jazz club for live music and dancing, any night of the week. wander into la ovella negra if you’re feeling homesick- this unassuming door leads into a massive expat bar full of picnic tables, drunken cultural exchanges, and shitty sangria by the pitcher- and don’t think for a minute that means i hate it.

FOOTNOTES– these are just for your feet!

Can Cisa- Carrer de la Princesa, 14

Museu Picasso- Carrer Montcada, 15-23

Catedral de Barcelona- Pla Seu, 3

El Xampanyet- Carrer de Montcada, 22

Bubo- Carrer de les Caputxes, 6

Al Vinya del Senor- Plaza Sta Maria, 5

El 4 Gats- Carrer de Montsió, 3

Palau de Musica- Carrer de Palau de la Música, 4-6

The Attic- Les Rambles, 120

La Boqueria- Les Rambles, 91

La Fianna- Carrer dels Banys Vells, 15

Small bar- Carrer d’Ataülf, 9

Harlem Jazz Club- Carrer de Comtessa de Sobradiel, 8

La Ovella Negra- Calle de les Sitges, 5

start your day at barcelona’s own Arc de Triomf, which just like the city is a bit more colorful, more contemporary, and rough around the edges than its parisian friend’s. slip over to Happy Bike Rentals to rent bikes for the day. from there bike straight into the Parc de la Ciutadella, which boasts barcelona’s parliament, a beautiful fountain (that yours truly may or may not have a significant piece of), and plenty of space to lounge and relax. there’s also a Zoo with pretty good hot dogs. fyi, the albino gorilla died back in 2004, but you wouldn’t know that based on his countenance being all over the city and the zoo. i spent a little too long searching for him at the zoo, even feeling very confident that i’d spotted him sleeping in his cage (which by the way, is still there. exactly as he left it. dishes in the sink, clothes set out on the bed for the next day and everything). don’t be tricked by this. snowflake resides only in the hearts of the catalunyans. whether you zoo or not, hope on your chariots and head toward the the coast. before you set off, stop in and get some bocadillos to bring with you- i love — for sandwiches (and somehow their donuts are insanely good) or my favorite cafe, El Cafe de la Pompeu, right across from my former universitat, El Pompeu Fabra. when you reach the sea you’ll be at the most touristy area of coastline, the beach of barceloneta, where you find all of the semi-subterranean restaurants that turn into clubs at night and open up right onto the sand. if you must visit one, i recommend Shoko– especially on tuesdays. you’ll also see the iconic two towers with frank gehry’s stunning aluminum fish sculpture. underneath his sculpture is a series of hidden paths and waterfalls. bike through here even though it feels dangerous to weave through all the tourists. from here, follow the boardwalk up the other side and simply continue north, biking up the coast and take in stunning views of the mediterranean. wander into Parc Diagonal Mar and play with all of the music-related jungle gyms. sit on one of the many industrial piers and gaze out over the sea, legs dangling. eat your sandwich.

head straight back down the coast and onward to the Passeig del Colom, passing through in time to catch an iconic sunset over the port, in the silhouette of the sacred Cristobal Colon statue. feeling fancy? bike all the way down the port and head up to the rooftop bar of the W Hotel, right along the mediterranean coast, to take in a caipirinha and some of the best views of the city. wander up avenida del paral.lel to Quimet y Quimet for one of the most authentic and quirkiest catalan tapas experiences in the city. it’s crowded, it’s loud, the wine comes in little juice glasses and the food with little to no explanation. enjoy it. once you have a taste, wander through El Raval neighborhood, Barcelona’s grungy art community. make your way through Mercat Sant Antoni, one of the oldest and most iconic markets in the city. following the Ronda de Sant Antoni up to Barcelona’s Gran Via takes you past the University of Barcelona, the Contemporary Art Museum, and lots of unique shops along the way to keep you distracted. if you’re hungry for dinner, stop into L’Oliva for contemporary Catalan fare and one of my favorite dinner spots in the city. after dinner, wander into Espit Chupitos, one of Barcelona’s many shots bars. choose from hundreds of shots, each a different adventure of sorts- stay away from the monica lewinsky (just take my word for it). from here, wander northeast along Gran Via and east into the gothic quarter to do some bar hopping.

Shoko- Passeig Marítim, 36

W Hotel Barcelona- Plaça de la Rosa dels Vents, 1

Quimet y Quimet- Carrer del Poeta Cabanyes, 25

Mercat Sant Antoni- Carrer del Comte d’Urgell

L’Oliva- Gran Via de Les Corts Catalanes, 596

Espit Chupitos- Carrer del Consell de Cent, 268

start your day off by making a reservation- Parc Güell is free but entry into any of the iconic areas with the mosaic benches will require money and a reservation.

NOW, let’s set off into the beautiful northern area of the city today. starting with a cafe and croissant (find a place?) in the lovely neighborhood of Gracia, then head north toward Parc Güell. it’s a hike, but it will make the end worth your while. once you’re there, plan to lose yourself for at least two hours wandering through the tunnels and chambers of the creative genius of Gaudi. beyond the iconic mosaic lizard and meandering benches, there are also gnarly rock formations and caves made especially for echoey acoustics where you’re destined to find a didgeridooed busker or two. admire the views, pretend to run into javier bardem, pet the exceptionally well-groomed stray cats that are said to be decedents of Gaudi’s beard.

from there, head to either (or somehow, both) the Parc del Laberint d’Horta if you’re looking for a more natural and relaxing experience, with a challenging, huge cypress maze to wander through. this park is absolutely pristine and offers stunning, unique views of the city and plenty of hidden, romantic spots for a to feast over jamon and vino with a lover. or, head northwest up to the highest point in the city (don’t worry, there’s a funicular)- the antique theme park at Tibidabo and Temple del Sagrat Cor. it’s one of my favorite spots in the city, and equal parts sacred and adventurous. ride the ferris wheel. climb to the top of the winding staircase to view the city beneath the open arms of jesus. eat cotton candy. play human-size chess. now finish your churros y chocolate and get in line for the funicular, we have places to see! at the base of the funicular (how many more times can i say that word?) you’ll find my favorite spot in the city to have a glass of wine- i hope you catch it at sunset. Mirablau, which was built into the side of a mountain and consists primarily of one huge glass window, it’s the perfect place to relax after a day of hiking. if you want to stay here, the discoteca is just a treacherous staircase down the mountain, completely open-air, and features fantastic djs. BUT, i’d encourage you to continue on… we have some eating and drinking to do. head south back into the Gracia neighborhood to grab a quick bite at Flash Flash Tortilleria, a simple tapas bar offering way too many varieties of Spain’s sacred tortilla (need an explanation? ah, here comes one now…) or head to Paco Meralgo for more formal tapas and excellent seafood. grab a drink at the stunning Hotel Casa Fuster and find yourself transported into that scene from vicky christina barcelona. wander down Carrer Verdi for tapas, drinks, dancing, and culture. if you’re looking to burn the midnight oil, Sutton is one of the most famous discotecas in the city. if you have any issues getting in, act like you know Richard, the very distinguished looking gentleman at the door. he’d rather let you in than admit he doesn’t remember you- trust me.

FOOTNOTES??! more like- addresses, am i right?

Parc Guell- Carrer d’Olot, s/n, 08024

Sutton- Calle Tuset, 13

ah, the modernist and historical soul of the city- let’s take it all in today. holding hands.

start your day making some reservations, again- you’ll be visiting two of the Gaudi houses  (Casa Mila and Casa Battlo) and Sagrada Familia today, it might be a good idea to choose which ones you want to pay to enter and spend some time in. of the two houses, i recommend Casa Mila (aka La Pedrera).  Sagrada Familia is amazing inside and out, and worth the money if you want to enter but you won’t be let down observing from the exterior.

 

FOOTNOTES– a debriefing, for your feet:

Hospital de Sant Pau- Carrer de Sant Quintí, 89

Estrella Damm original factory- Carrer del Rosselló, 515

Casa Battlo- Passeig de Gràcia, 43

Casa Mila- Provença, 261-265

Palau Nacional- Parc de Montjuïc, s/n  (by the way, s/n means “sin numero” or without number. in other words, just arrive and you’re there. be the number. be the number.)

 Font Montjuic- Plaça de Carles Buïgas, 1

HEY DON’T WORRY– we’re not finished yet.

if you aren’t exhausted yet, explore catalunya beyond it’s celebrated capital.

go forth, hungry travelers.

see you out there.

<3L.

It was Wednesday, my last full day in Barcelona, and I had been exploring the boundless wonders of Montjuic. Today’s offering, from this seemingly endless mountain, was hours spent wandering through the dimensions of Joan Miro’s mind and collection in a bright white modern museum that sits atop the city.

The path we chose back down the mountain and through the city was meandering and indirect and ended up taking us through El Poble Sec, a neighborhood that was perceptibly full of Catalunyan pride and political mobilization. There were si flags hanging out of nearly every apartment window, entire floors of balconies draped in red and yellow striped banners, a man sitting at a table with a sign that read, “if you want to know why you should vote yes, ask me” and young people walking around with the Catalan flags draped over their shoulders like capes. The neighborhood seemed united and ignited, preparing for the upcoming secession vote. We couldn’t help but absorb the passion from this spirited movement found on nearly every corner. A few blocks down the road we heard a faint sound, a drum beat, a nearly tribal hum growing louder. It was an unsynchronized cacophony that somehow sounded harmonious. It grew louder. We waited on the corner when all at once a small parade of sorts, a band of misfits yielding makeshift percussion instruments. Drumsticks banging on empty water bottles. Palms slapping wooden boxes. Wooden spoons on pots and pans, drumsticks on drumsticks. whatever tools could serve as an adequate and audible extension to the heartbeats within them. A passionate movement to bring sound and life to a history of oppression, a command to take a stand and an understanding for all of those within earshot.

We marched alongside them, and they gleefully recognized our haphazard following, turning towards us and beating their instruments louder with huge smiles. Which felt both odd and inviting, although they must know it was nearly impossible to resist this form of resistance.

Onward, to the park, we followed along. They entered and descended upon a Wednesday afternoon in Barcelona. They marched into the center of the park, loud and impassioned, then at once suppressing the racket and kneeling down, all of them, silent and kneeling and waiting as one rose from the group like a flame out of ashes, and through a megaphone and in proud Catalan, he sung an easily discernible explanation and plea. We must vote yes. We must fight back. We must move forward. We won’t be silent. And as the noise and people both grew to take a stand, the parade dispersed, placing their instruments in the hands of park dwellers; children on playgrounds, grandmas on park benches. A boy on a bicycle. A dog who playfully jumped at the sound and celebration. Enabling all who were present to share in one heartbeat and be proud and heard. The noise surrounded everyone and became everyone.

Hours later I was in a cab, riding back to my hostel to change before and meeting a friend in El Raval for a drink (and, inevitably, some late-night chupitos). I was turning the corner to my place in the charming L’Eixample neighborhood, when I heard a sound, rising from all around me.  I put my window down to be greeted by that same beating, percussion, noise, cacophony, just as I’d heard before. a chorus of dissent. and even in the narrow streets of this historic barrio, it felt like so much more, like this noise carried throughout the city. I asked the driver what was going on. “It’s for our independence,” he said, beaming. “Every night at 10pm we all make noise, until 10:15. that’s it. so we all can feel that we are strong and in agreement.”

I stared out the window, listening with my ears with my hand clutching heart and tears in my eyes. I paid the man and climbed the stairs to my hostel, into my shared room and threw open the window. I saw shadows of people on every balcony on the block, all clutching makeshift instruments, all making noise. This erratic disruption was the beating heart of the city. Pumping and thriving and contagious and from what all of a sudden and finally, I understood.

I’ve lived in both Barcelona and Madrid. Although during my time in Madrid I was older and more immersed in Spanish culture than I was studying abroad at 21 in Barcelona, I felt certain on my position regarding Catalunyan secession. It seemed selfish to deny one’s country to protect some regional identity. It felt unneccessarily protectionist and aggressive, and most of all, it would never work. What I saw and felt last week in Barcelona changed my mind. This region and its people suffered under a 40-year dictatorship during which their culture was completely suppressed. Their flags were hidden, their language was silenced, their identity was a frightened whisper instead of a roar. And I realized that these people are carrying the torch of their parents, grandparents, ancestors, and some are even yielding the torch that they themselves weren’t allowed to burn for so long. And at 10:15pm, when they went back into their homes, the city was still buzzing with pride and passion and my heart and head finally understood.

The next day as I was packing my backpack rather hastily in the common area in the hostel, I was speaking spanish with two Catalunyans who worked there. One of the girls laughed and said “It’s a good thing you are leaving. The US just sent a warning that Americans shouldn’t travel to Barcelona, it’s too dangerous.” and we all couldn’t help but recognize the ridiculousness of the idea. I imagined heeding this warning and not having felt or seen or understood what I had of the Catalan people the past week, something it had taken me nearly a decade to comprehend. I felt jealous of the Catalunyans, even with their suffering, that they are part of a culture that promotes volatile displays of dissension and intention rather than one that encourages its people to be complacent out of fear, to stay put instead of exposing themselves to beauty, pain, curiosity. And yes, there is a danger that can sometimes come from instability, but from such exposure and risk is the only way we will ever grow.

We are blessed to be Americans. However, as a people who stand for freedom, I’m afraid so many of us haven’t felt or seen or heard what that means. Is our own sheltered ignorance not a similar imprisonment to the forced suppression of a dictatorship? At least one was born out of a flame and the other, I felt, out of and into dust.

I realized then that the reason why we travel is for this; to be rather confidently certain of our position yet then to be moved, wholly and completely, to share a different perspective and the hope of a new horizon. To be part of something so beautiful and pure. To be moved by something that perhaps we don’t understand but are fortunate enough to learn from the pain and suffering of others. For Catalunya, for their irrepressible pride and passion. To hear it, to feel it, and to understand it, finally and still. That is why we travel.