We’re all trying to do our best to navigate the risks involved with this pandemic. There are so many questions that we ask ourselves daily- especially regarding the risks, rewards, and requirements of traveling at the moment.

Should we postpone all travel until a vaccine has been found?

Should we concentrate only on domestic trips within states without a required quarantine period?

Is it worth it to quarantine for 14 days in order to see family?

I recently had to navigate those decisions and myself onto a vacation that I decided for multiple reasons was worth the risk. I’ll share all of the questions I had along the way to help you know what questions to ask, what to expect and how to best make your own decision about travel during the pandemic.

PLEASE NOTE: I am not a doctor nor a scientist, just a writer who has done some research worth sharing. Please continue to monitor the CDC guidelines, your state government’s advising, and your own consciousness and that of your loved ones before making any decisions.

When should I get tested before traveling during the pandemic?

This was a question that was seemingly impossible to answer. If you have the ability to completely quarantine for at least 8 days before traveling, then you should get a test 4 days before leaving. Symptoms can lay dormant for 4 days, so if you are not exposing yourself to anyone else who might carry the virus for 4 days, then get tested and wait the 4 days for results, you should have an accurate and clean assessment of your health before traveling.

Flying during the pandemic- is it safe?

Yes and no. There’s been a lot of conversation about the “recycled air” on a plane that makes us all feel a little nervous. 

That being said, if you are traveling by plane, there’s no way to 100% guard yourself from the risk of contracting the disease on the flight. This article from The Points Guy (sounds cheesy, but a great authority on all things air travel) helped me make my decision, as well as traveling with a hefty supply of Lysol wipes. 

If you are able to quarantine for this same period post-flight, wait 4 days after flying (for potential symptoms to develop), get tested, and wait (and hope) that those results come within 5 days.

We flew United, which I can confirm took the following precautions to make us feel safe:

• Maintained a 50% capacity on the flight
• Boarded and disembarked the plane two rows at a time to maintain social distancing (this was also amazing to avoid that annoying moist-flight aisle traffic jam)
• Provided sanitized wipes via a long pair of tweezers from the flight attendant upon boarding (the tweezers were not lost on me.)
• Requested drink and food orders to be put in before boarding so as to avoid the lingering crawl of the cart.

Hotels + Rental Properties- how safe are they during a pandemic?

We stayed at both a beach house found via a local property rental website (similar to Airbnb) that maintained standards for cleanliness and had publicized sanitation guidelines. No one else entered the house but our family during the 5-day stay. The beaches in the Outer Banks are mostly residential, so there was no problem maintaining a 6-foot (or even 20-foot) distance from other beachgoers. This felt like a very safe option for accommodations.

Our hotel, a Hilton in Virginia Beach, provided the following precautions:

• The door sealed with a “sanitization guaranteed” seal when we checked into the room
• All physical “amenities” (the toilet paper, remote control, cups, ice bucket, bathroom accessories) were wrapped in plastic bags
• There would be no room service to make sure no one else entered the room during our stay
• The elevators had a maximum of 4 people inside at all times
• Masks were required in public spaces…

However, the following situations were risky and unavoidable…

• Plenty of people ignored the mask warning
• We still had to use public restrooms coming and going from the beach
• Hotelgoers were routinely drippy (no offense to anyone… it’s an oceanfront hotel)
• The dining space wasn’t physically separated from the lobby

Is Taking Public Transportation Safe During the Pandemic?

I hadn’t taken the subway since mid-March and was very concerned to be taking both the subway and the Path before boarding a plane and seeing my family. However, I didn’t see anyone without masks, and there was plenty of space on the train cars during the times we were riding. It felt good to feel like a normal straphanger in New York again, while still taking every possible precaution.

Is it safe to travel to see family during the pandemic? Is it worth it?

This is for you to decide, based on the age of family and any pre-existing conditions. Note also the hidden “conditions” the pandemic has had a way of exposing in all of us- heightened stress levels and sensitivities don’t disappear in a different, more tranquil environment. We were able to mitigate this by having the difficult conversations we may have been tempted to avoid. The pandemic has reminded us all that life is short and unpredictable- talk to the people you love. Embrace them. And care about them too much to let things slide.

But at least a vacation during the pandemic will be “relaxing,” right?

You know that anxiety we’ve all suffered from when leaving the house when the daily death rate in New York was at nearly 600, or when attending a social situation that we were promised would be “socially distanced” but very much wasn’t, or spending time around a friend for an hour or so who then lets us know they don’t believe in the pandemic and have been acting as such?

Yeah, so just imagine that times 10 but in multiple environments that are beyond your control, and no home insight. 

I can’t say that this was the most relaxing vacation, but it still felt better to get away and be stressed out than to feel stuck and still stressed. Wear a mask, wash your hands like crazy, don’t touch your face, and try to enjoy yourself and time with loved ones. This is the best advice I can give. 

The 14-Day Travel Quarantine Requirement- is it worth it?

A few notes on my decisions to travel regardless of this looming requirement.

What exactly is required for the 14-day quarantine?

What it is intended to require, based on my understanding and research, is the following:

• Not leaving your house, at all
• Getting your groceries delivered
• Exercising indoors, if your tiny apartment allows
• Saying “no” to even socially-distanced hangs
• If you have a roommate, even if it is your partner, everyone should wear a mask indoors
• If your roommate was not traveling with you, you must stay in a hotel for the 14 days at your own expense
• You must notify your building that someone has traveled to a “quarantine required” state… So don’t even think about collecting your own mail or packages…

What is the traveler health form? Do I have to fill it out?

The traveler health form is the form the state is using to help understand who, when, how, and why you were traveling outside of New York, where you traveled to, and how to keep track of you if needed. 

I was surprised to find that this form was not passed out at the end of the flight and required before leaving the departures terminal (as customs forms always are). I was not able to fill one out in the airport, mostly because I was searching for a bathroom and then needed to make the next train in time- at no point did I see a kiosk or individual asking me to fill out the form.

This form is available to fill out online if you do not fill it out in the airport.

But will they really know if I am ‘quarantining’? Will they find me?

They can know and they can find you. And if they do, it’s a $10k fine. This city and tri-state area have fought incredibly hard to get this virus under control, and any future spike will likely be caused by out-of-state travelers.

For the most part, the quarantine is based on the honor system… just as the honor system was what brought us from the brink of complete shutdown a la Italia and into a point where we have the ability to travel at all. Be an honorable person. Do not be the catalyst. Don’t let your actions be guided by fear or fines, just be a good New Yorker. 

#NewYorkTough

Can’t I just get tested as soon as I get back to NYC?

No. You have to wait 4 days to see if symptoms develop before even setting foot inside a pharmacy. If they still don’t, you can get tested, and wait the 5-14 days for your results. And even if you get “negative” results within the 9 days of landing-waiting-testing-results, the government can still fine you for not quarantining for the full 14 days.

Any other questions?

Hit me up. I’m happy to help your decision to travel, and I’ll be in quarantine for the next 12 days. And even then, I’ll still be here, trying to help

I stumbled across this tiny little oasis trying to find a way to spend 5 hours and avoid the Petri dish that is a hospital waiting room while my boyfriend had surgery. It was the middle of a heatwave. The map seemed to show plenty of coastline, within (reasonable) walking distance. It was 7 in the morning and I had been meaning to intentionally break in my Birkenstock’s for nearly a week now. I set out.

I wandered through the very residential neighborhood of Marine Park and toward the wildness of Mill Basin, Brooklyn’s largest public park, before letting my finger-upon-Google-map curiosity float over to a spot that read “Plumb Beach Nature Reserve”. The sun was hot, my backpack was heavy, and I’d just bought a White Claw that I wanted to pop open while still cold and sitting upon sand. 

After a fairly easy and not too scenic walk, I ended up in a small parking lot with a retro changing facilities (closed per pandemic) and a bold inscription that read “PLUMBEACH” all the way around it. 

This, I could tell, this must be the place I would spend the next 3 hours.
It would be, me, along with about 20 others, all wading out into the endless expanse of 3-foot deep brackish water. No lifeguards, no currents, very minimal waves, and the only momentary embarrassment of having to squat in the water to pee. An ideal way to spend the day. Follow me there…

Where is Plumb Beach?

Plumb Beach is a Gateway National Recreation Area located south of Sheepshead Bay in Brooklyn. It is a sandy beach that opens up to the Jamaica Bay. It’s breezy beaches and calm waters make it a favorite for kayakers, paddle boarders, kiteboarders, and windsurfers.

Can you Swim at Plumb Beach?

Yes! The water is about 2-feet deep at low tide, 3.5 feet at high tide, and you can walk all the at least 100 yards out at this depth. The waves are minimal and there is no current. It’s a great safe beach to bring children.

What should I bring to Plumb Beach?

Bring everything you want to have on the beach with you. There is no boardwalk and no food options within walking distance. Be sure to bring plenty of water!

What is Prohibited at Plumb Beach?

According to the National Park website, the following things are prohibited:

• Swimming, diving, or bathing
• Rafts or other inflatables
• Consumption of alcohol
• Littering
• Smoking
• Any discharge into water
• Pets off leash or in the water
• Open flame
• Storing personal property
• Motor vehicles without specific authorization

Of this list, I either participated in or witnessed 7 of these activities taking place. Yes, you can swim. Yes, you can bring rafts. Yes, you can responsibly drink alcohol. Yes. you should prioritize above EVERYTHING else protecting the vulnerable ecosystem of the Jamaica Bay. And no, there is no one patrolling the beach, looking to take away your spiked seltzer. Just don’t be an asshole, ok?

How do I get to Plumb Beach?

By car, you can get to Plumb Beach via Belt Parkway/Shore Parkway around the southwest edge of Brooklyn, or take Woodhaven Boulevard through Queens and connect to the Belt Parkway/Shore Parkway. If you want to take public transit to Plumb Beach, take either the 4-5, the 2, or the B and connect to the B84 Bus, which stops at the Plumb Beach parking lot. Biking to Plumb Beach will take you via bike lanes all the way down Bedford Avenue via Prospect Heights, down Leonard through Bed Stuy, or through Bushwick and Brownsville. From North Brooklyn, the bike ride is about 1.5 hours.

Is Plumb Beach a good place for Photographers?

Yes, because of the long distance of shallow, calm waters, taking photos in the early morning at Plumb Beach creates a smooth, silvery surface on the water, ideal for nude photo shoots and artistic effects you can’t achieve on other coastlines in New York.

Why should I go to Plumb Beach?

Because this city has nearly 520 miles of coastline, yet we all seem to compete for the most ‘coveted’ areas at Rockaway, Fort Tilden, and Coney Island. And, with the recent shark sitings at Jones Beach have left me yearning to float out into the safety of a shark-free bay. Plumb Beach is clean and comfortable and just hidden enough to keep it from getting too crowded, even on the weekends. 

I uncovered this photo beneath another in an old frame. This photo was taken while wandering the streets of Madrid, not too far from the Plaza Mayor. And what I like about this photo isn’t only the beauty in its simplicity, or the sheer Spanishness of it…

What I like about it is the girl who was on the other side of the lens. I took this photo on my very first day in Europe. On the very first day I was abroad. On the very first day I was alone, without my family, without my friends, without all the familiarity of my life up until that moment. And I remember falling in love with the symmetry of the balconies, with the way the light cast shadows at such a particular angle beneath them, with the idea of a lifestyle where the sun greets you in the morning and you stand sipping coffee on a tiny balcony, observing the city below in a robe from your bedroom.

What I didn’t realize at the time was that I was actually in love with the beauty of discovery. After that day, I’d go on to travel the world; to never lose the longing for that feeling of adventure, to never not pause to appreciate the way sunlight cast shadows upon a building in a foreign city. . Years later, I would find myself standing in the exact same spot, at what had to be the same time of day, and I stopped myself. I recognized the building, the scene, the light. And I remembered myself standing there 6 years earlier as a novice traveler, and then, 6 years later, standing there as a residence of that very city- the city that had given me life as a traveler.

Oh, Madrid. Thank you. Thank you so very much.

“no hay en la vida nada como la pena

de ser ciego en granada“

there is nothing in life

like the pain

of being blind

in granada.

<3L.

Let’s face it. Any beach is a nude beach if you take your clothes off. Usually this is illegal… which only means you have to know how to do it, when to do it, and how to seem genuinely apologetic when the cop on horseback catches you with your pants down. 

Here are the rules, or at least the best ways to break them. 

Where is the nude beach on Fort Tilden?

The unofficial nude area of Fort Tilden begins approximately 50 yeards from the end of the “boardwalk”. Walk beyond the protected wildlife area into the wild, unprotected naked human zone. From here, it will begin innocent enough. You’ll stake your claim somewhere halfway between the others, everyone protectively wearing whatever thin and perhaps trendy covering of a bathing suit that separates us from the animals. And then, one by one, you take it all off. It happens politely, as if asking permission. Is everyone ok with this? And then you look around and realize that not only is everyone ok with this, but everyone has been waiting for this. It’s a relief. It’s a release. It’s what happens when you decide you’ve had enough of the grind. It’s what you do when you don’t want to play by the rules. 

Are there certain days when you can be nude at Fort Tilden?

Well no, not officially. But the weekends are way more crowded and thus, more difficult to not have scattered people feeling weird for disrobing. If you’re going to break the law, also play hooky. Go mid-week. You won’t feel creepy, you’ll feel like part of a community. 

Is it legal to be naked on Fort Tilden?

Well no, of course it isn’t. But the important thing to know is that you won’t be offending anyone. We’re all in it, and out of it, together. Just do not fall asleep while naked. There will be cops, they will give you a citation, and you don’t want to be caught red-handed and pink-slipped with your pants down. 

On a recent Tuesday trip, as we were drying off after a rousing tube-enhanced dip, am oldish, tanned, and fully naked man walked up to introduce himself to be and my boyfriend and our stack of inflated tubes. Moments before, I saw in the distance another man approaching. A man, fully-clothed. A man on horseback. A man with a book of unissued citations. 

As the nude beachcomber approached, I warned him. “Hey! Might want to get dressed, the cops!”

“What! Cops! Where!?”

“On horseback, coming this way!” I pointed down the beach.

He ran back to his small, adjacent camp and fumbled to put on his neon Speedo. He fell into the sand, bare-assed. He scrambled, finally securing his small suit just in time. 

I surveyed the area to see that wordlessly, everyone had re-robed. We were all just regular, beach-going upstanding citizens now… except for one. He’d been napping peacefully and naked for nearly an hour. And he was about to get a clip-clopped law-abiding awakening from his slumber. 

“Excuse me sir,” the cop said.

“What? Whoa!” the nude napper said. 

“Yeah. Sir I’d like to know why you are naked, here, in a public area.”

Nude Napper looks around. “Well, I mean, because everyone is…” he keeps searching. We all look like strangers, traitors, innocently back in our clothes. 

“Keep looking around, buddy. You’re the only one.” The cop said, as the Nude Napper uncomfortably pulled on his shorts and was issued a citation.

 As the cop trodded off, we all slowly disrobed again, together. The oldish, nude beachcomber re-approached us. “Hey! Thanks for the warning. I gotta stick with you guys!” And then we all shook hands which felt hilariously formal given the circumstances. 

How much trouble can you actually get in for being naked on the beach?

I have no idea. And if this is something you’re concerned about, just keep your shorts on and head to the Hamptons. Where simply saying the f-word too loudly on the beach will get you locked up. 

Twenty-four hours is never enough in any city, but sometimes it’s all you have. And if you want a truly localized experience but only have a day in Brooklyn, here’s where to go, what to do, and how to best experience it, in one day.

Coming from Manhattan, first make your way down to lower Manhattan and walk across the Brooklyn Bridge. Yes, it’s touristy but it’s stunning and should be missed. This piece of architectural magic was the first to unite these two pieces of land, for foot traffic, horse-drawn carriages, and bicyclists at the time it opened in 1869.

The Brooklyn side of the bridge ends in DUMBO, a very historic and quite trendy neighborhood that stands for “Down Under The Manhattan Bridge Overpass”. Both the Manhattan Bridge and Brooklyn Bridge end in this neighborhood within a few blocks of each other, offering iconic views of both boroughs and picture-perfect frames for the infamous skyline (you’re probably familiar with the one above?).

Walk around Brooklyn Bridge Park, which has the best views of lower Manhattan. There’s a fairly hidden bar within the park, as well as a historic schooner-turned-oyster and cocktail bar just off the park in the river, in case you get thirsty (and I recommend that you do). Spend some time exploring the shops and cobblestone streets of DUMBO, but avoid Grimaldi’s. It’s not even close to the best pizza in town, and you don’t want to be one of those mindless tourists spending an hour in line for a sub-par slice.

From there, catch the NYC Ferry from DUMBO up to Williamsburg. Get off in South Williamsburg and walk under the Williamsburg Bridge and into Domino Park. Great waterfront views and my favorite taco spot in town, Tacocina. Owned by some of the best restauranteurs in town (think Union Square Cafe, Gramercy Tavern, Manhatta…) this sneaky little shack is serving some of the best tacos in town, right on the water, for less than $4 a pop. From there, walk up Kent to North 7th- There you’ll find Smorgasburg, a massive, weekly food festival (on Saturdays!) and their new Food Truck Fridays (on… Fridays!) in East River State Park, right on the water. Both will be crowded and full of “influencers” precariously positioning pineapples in Portrait Mode, but also a great way to experience some amazing local fare.

From there, walk East to Bedford Ave (the main drag in Williamsburg) for shops and such. Ideally you’ll find yourself close to sunset and also both the William Vale and Wythe Hotels around the same time. The William Vale is the tallest publicly-accessible structure in the borough, and thus offers unmatched views of the skyline, and damn good cocktails. It is, however, a scene. The Wythe Hotel, just across the street, is tall enough to see it all and has a much more localized vibe.

Make your way north into Greenpoint (the best neighborhood in Brooklyn) and explore the amazing shops along Franklin Street. Get dinner at any of my favorite spots- Chez Ma Tante (French Canadien/British inspired, and probably the best food in north Brooklyn right now), Le Fanfare (Sardinian-Italian spot where I work! Amazing fresh pastas and seafood), Oxomoco (one of two Michelin Starred Mexican places in the city. AMAZING food), Paulie Gee’s (the only pizza spot you need to know about. Unbelievable, and a neighborhood institution.) Cherry Point (mostly British, meat-centric, insanely talented chef) of El Born (authentic Spanish tapas and paella!) I recommend making a reservation ASAP at any of those places! Then go get drinks at Ramona, Troost, or Moonlight Mile,

Still want more? Work off that extra energy and tear up the dance floors at Good Room (edgy, techno-centric club with world-class DJs but an approachable vibe) or Pony Boy (wild dance parties for a youngish crowd that you still can fit right in, at any age) in Greenpoint. If you really want to burn the midnight oil- grab a cab and head to Bushwick to hit up a crazy dance party at House of Yes (part circus, part dance club, this eccentric space was started by a few Burning Man revelers who want to keep the Playa vibes going all year) or Brooklyn Mirage (MASSIVE indoor/outdoor space that is the best place to party outside of Ibiza.) until the wee hours.

Summer Guide to NYC Beaches | The Rockaways and Fort Tilden

How To Get There

By Bike

By Bus

The NYC Ferry

When To Go

What To Bring

Ah Florida, the so-called redneck riviera. That oddly southern slice of the states that has somehow avoided both the charm and refinement that can often be associated with the region. Florida is a stomping ground for spring break revelers, a destination for Nascar enthusiasts, a paradise for pruney post-professional retirees flocking to leisure-centric housing developments. 
But could it be that the entire state has succumbed to these stereotypes?

Of course not.

Forget what you thought about Florida and remember what you’ve always known about traveling – that no place can be determined by what those thought before of it, and as such must be explored, often, and by many feet.

And explore we did, upon two feet (each) and for a brief two-day stint in the diverse and comparatively bohemian little town of St. Petersburg, Florida. 
Let me preface this by saying, two days isn’t quite enough. But on a visit clearly dedicated to seeing family in Clearwater, a quick two-day escape is what we had so we made the most of it. 

Here’s how we did it and how we recommend doing it. 

Where To Stay in St. Petersburg | The Birchwood

Hotels can often feel sterile and inevitably devoid of the culture and life of the place they are set within. We were searching for lodging that felt emblematic to the historic glamour that defines St. Pete, far from any chain hotels or kitschy resorts. The Birchwood, a tastefully funky, hacienda-style oasis right in the heart of the St. Pete art district was exactly what we were looking for.

This stunning boutique hotel provided an approachable yet wholly luxurious experience that was both charming and cozy. We were greeted at the front desk who happily gave us a few tips on the area before handing us the key to our little piece of paradise on the 3rd floor. He popped up again our door within minutes just after we called asking where to find the ice machine. “I’ll be right up,” he appeared then with a bucket of ice and a smile. Because what good is a machine with a button when you can have instead personalized service? These little extras added to not only the level of service but the sense of community and conversation that most modern hotels lack.

The room was a meticulous mix of modernity and historic charm; a glamourous clawfooted bathtub sat within a mostly marble bathroom, contemporary light fixtures illuminated an antique-inspired and dramatically comfortable four post bed. The space felt like the perfect escape while not feeling too secluded from the scene in St. Pete, and our entire experience at the Birchwood, from sunset at the Canopy, dinner at Birch and Vine, and the charming way the lady at the front desk admitted that she couldn’t drive a stick when we asked to get our car from “valet” the next morning made us feel equally like revered guests but also like a part of the family at the Birchwood. 

Visit The Birchwood at 340 Beach Drive NE. Book a room first here, and prepare to never want to leave.

On Your Way to St. Pete

Acai Bowls at Karma Juice Bar

What is it about vacation that tends to steer you recklessly away from anything resembling health food? Driving in from Clearwater, we took this 45 stint as an opportunity to make some definitively good decisions about road trip food amid the (very much voluntary) fried fish and “gourmet” burger options we’d been exploring most of our trip. A brief argument fueled by indirect Google maps instructions and hunger led us to this little health Mecca, right along interstate 19 on your way to St. Pete. This organic juice spot feels good just stepping inside. We chose the Brainiac and the Pitaya bowls plus a pack of kale energy cubes to stave away sinful snacking which, ok, mostly worked. Find them at 209 1st St. NE.

St. Pete Beach and the Don Cesar hotel

Established as a destination for snowbirds and locals alike, St. Pete beach seems to be home to the finest sand beaches and landmarked because of the 1928 Moorish masterpiece, the Don Cesar hotel. This beach still drips and tempts you with prohibition-era glamour and is worth seeing, staying, sunning and sanding for a few hours, even on a quick trip. It gave us an ideal and very real setting to juxtapose our dive into what became a very surreal afternoon of art gazing. 

The Dali Museum

As with most tourist destinations in Florida, this museum is inevitably inhabited by those seekers of a rather refined age. Beat them at their own game by arriving late-ish (around 1pm), going through the museum in the opposite direction (while still using the audio guide, which I highly recommend), and buying tickets online here to bypass the confused queue. 

There is something very sacred about a museum that only showcases one artist’s work, and this surreal trip through the mystical, brazen, and often (evil) mind of Salvadore Dali will leave you with the very feeling of being in the presence of pure genius. In comparison to the Dali Museum in Spain, which was curated by the man himself and thus felt more like a psychotic roller coaster ride through the depths of his consciousness, this is pristine and well-curated to help you understand and appreciate one of the greatest artists of our time. 

In addition to the audio guide, also don’t skip the virtual reality experience. Yes, it seems silly. Yes, your palms will sweat a bit if you have any sort of fear of heights. No there is no better opportunity to dive right into the mind and mayhem that is this artist. It’s free and the line rarely takes more than 15 minutes.

Before departing the museum, get a cava at the Cafe Gala and stroll through the sparse but stunning sculpture garden. Become part of the art my hanging your wristband upon the tree of life.  The Dali museum is located at 1 Dali Blvd. Get tickets before you go right here.

Afternoon Drinks at MacDinton’s Irish Pub

Irish pubs in New York are horribly cheesy, overpriced and tasteless. But I’ve found that Irish pubs nearly anywhere else are usually your best bet to get a localized bar experience. We found ourselves in MacDinton’s on 1st Ave for this very reason. It was 4pm and most other bars were closed or sad, and this one was full of futbol fans drinking and verbally reacting to two Champions League games. After two pints each of local Cigar City brews and a celebratory shot of Jameson (admittedly, I love to see Real Madrid lose a bit too much), plus some much appreciated advice about the area from a bartender and the owner, we walked the two short blocks back to our hotel, just in time to catch the sunset. 242 1st Ave.

Sunset Drinks at Canopy atop the Birchwood Inn

The best way to experience and appreciate all of St. Pete is to get above it. Perched elegantly atop the Birchwood is the Canopy, a stunning rooftop lounge offering panoramic views of this southern paradise and the best way to experience the area’s iconic sunsets. The drink prices juxtapose the glamorous setting, with happy hour (which conveniently coincides with sunset hour) setting us back only $24 after 2 drinks each.

We settled into the seductive seating, as the bright orange hues from the sun gave way to the flames from the open fire pit upon our rather sun-scorched skin. This was the moment we were somehow waiting for, that felt world’s apart from our lives in New York. 

Dinner below at Birch and Vine

Staying in a hotel with one of the top-rated restaurants in the state gives you no need to stray far for dinner. We descended four floors into Birch and Vine, the seductive and intimate dining space within the Birchwood. We were treated like royalty despite our relatively tipsy states, and were received New York caliber service within this historically progressive city. To drink, we chose the Canopy Jewel, a refreshing floral and (mostly!) local cocktail, and the Red Light Negroni, their slightly bolder take on the classic.

We chose the Green Goddess salad to start things off with good intentions, before indulging in the Filet Oscar, elegantly accompanied by local crab and asparagus, and the Sweet Potato Gnocchi with pork belly. The pairing made for a decadent and exotic experience that felt oh-so-far from any pretenses about this state. This was fine dining, and it suited our sunburnt skin and big city hearts just fine. 

Live Music at Ruby’s Elixir

We ended up visiting Florida inconveniently during college spring break, which meant coastline colored with misplaced farmers tans and bars packed with inebriated 20-somethings pulling out dance moves that I’m sure were never in my repertoire no matter how much Red Bull and Vodka I’d consumed a decade ago. As they and we all flocked to the live music and energy at Ruby’s, this crowd only meant for some unmatched people watching and pleasantly unscrutinized dance moves of our own.  Having our view of the band interrupted by 5 rows of misguided and horny and sun-and-beer-soaked college kids was equally painful and nostalgic, and colored the disenchanted renditions of Mr. Jones and Me and who they didn’t know was Tom Petty in a way that felt damn good.  15 3rd St. N.

Brunch at Cassis

I always find myself seeking something slightly Parisien when I travel anywhere outside of Paris. And Cassis, with it’s brightly lit dining space, aptly antique furnishings, and spacious terrace with French-style wicker seating welcomed our slightly-hungover bodies with open arms. We settled into a sunny brunch and deliberated over a menu of mostly local flavors, peppered with Parisien influence.

I chose the Shrimp and Sausage Ragu (with grits!) and the Brioche French Toast, a pairing that was both pleasantly sweet and painfully savory and were only highlighted with a round of sparkling mimosas.

Brunch is served daily from 8am to 3pm, dinner from 4-10pm (or 11pm on weekends) plus bar and lounge stay open a bit later. 170 Beach Dr. 

Visit the Sunken Gardens, on your way out

Part museum, part zoo, part promenade, the Sunken Gardens is a peaceful and romantic way to experience the (magic) of St. Pete on your way out of town. This 100-year old garden is home to some of the most undisturbed and stunning flowers and plantlife in the country. They’ve recently welcomed a (crop? smattering? gaggle? someone help me here…) group of flamingos that will thankfully take no notice of you. Admission is $10 and parking is free. Due to the now disruptive way we now experience places and the noticeably undisrupted nature of the gardens, take heed of their photography policy and appreciate this natural, unfiltered and uninhibited environment as it’s intended. 

The latest in my Why We Travel series takes you into the intimate moments before a city is ready to reveal itself to you. Before the sights and sounds surface, before its citizens start to mindlessly pass you, into the innocent way it wakes. This was the magic that I was immersed in every morning as I commuted an hour outside the city while teaching English in Madrid. I’ve never been a morning person, except for in 2013, on a commuter train through the Eastern plains of Spain. Come with me, through these words I wrote during one such commute.

I get to see Madrid each morning just as it’s waking. A city so captivating, that mix of dominating modernism with unwavering tradition. I see it at its most vulnerable. The sunrise hardly beginning to warm the sky over the mountains in the east as the rest of the metropolis lays in soft darkness, waiting. The plants sit still in the windows of the flower shop, actively dormant. The startled baker picks up a pile of baguettes he dropped along the sidewalk, brushes them off, then leaves his delivery before the cafe has its first customer. At the coffee stand in the station, sparse customers ask quietly for a cup before boarding the train. But for most, we wait until we reach our destination, preferring the slow calm waking of early dawn over a caffeinated jolt, letting the sunlight warm us and the city as one before we let substance, noise, bother consume us. As it slowly peaks over the horizon the sounds crescendos, the pace quickens, the Madrid at dawn bows graciously to the Madrid of morning and we all inhale as we are enveloped into this charming, relentless city.

lunch in taipei.

every morning in taipei started with the same understood priority, the same frenzied mentality, the same shameless need- get pork buns. of course this task was quickly followed on our mental itinerary by “check out hidden taiwanese morning market” and “visit taipei memorial hall” or “hike up to breathtaking view of skyline at elephant park” and “stroll around xinyi district”  “share bottle of wine to get the nerve to check out taipei 101.” but first, always, the pork buns.